The chronology of an eleven week circumnavigation of the USA, with a small diversion through Canada.
Getting Ready - But First, How it Started!
06/04/2013
06/04/2013
Some time after Duncan acquired his first BMW (K100LT) in about 1998, he had an ambition to ride a bike across America. He mentioned it to Liz on occasion but it never developed beyond that. When Duncan acquired his second BMW, (R1200RT) its touring ability rekindled that old ambition. One afternoon in 2010 Duncan and Liz had a conversation which went pretty much like this: 'Schatz, you know how I have always wanted to ride a bike across the USA?' Liz responded in the affirmative. 'Well, how would you like to come with me?' Liz thought about it for a few seconds and rather to Duncan's surprise but delight said, 'Yes.' And indeed, Liz continues to be surprised at herself. She believes the delight will come later!
The date was tentatively set for 2012, by which time sufficient leave would have been accumulated for the jaunt. Regrettably, however, the untimely death of Liz's Mum in 2011 in South Africa saw our plans deferred by a year.
When we finally started thinking of dates for 2013, the original thought of departing in May or June got stretched to late July; as this allowed Liz to accumulate a few extra days leave and, perhaps more importantly, had us arriving in the USA when the height of Summer was past.
Duncan spent a lot of time researching different options for the ride - renting versus buying and exporting, buying and reselling; and shipping his bike to the USA and back. Renting was quickly determined to be too expensive and Australian government laws killed the idea of buying and exporting home. Buying and reselling was looking like the best option when we heard of an Australian business that would ship to the USA and back for under A$3,000.00. As this was well within Duncan's notional tolerance for a loss on buying and reselling, together with the important advantage of taking over a bike properly set up and well known to us, this was quickly settled.
Duncan's attention now turned to serious scrutiny of his R1200RT. As one of the world's best purpose-designed high speed touring motorcycles, its highway ability was unquestioned, although gravel roads would be avoided in all but the most necessary circumstances. The real issue was with luggage. Two middle-aged adults could not reasonably carry all their requirements for four weeks on a bike like that; and it is not designed to allow easy supplementation of its carrying capacity. It soon became apparent to him that the RT would have to go. After a detailed review of the market, the decision for its replacement came down to either the BMW R1200 GS Adventure or the Moto Guzzi Stelvio. Feature for feature the BMW was superior and with a gulp and considerable regret, the RT was traded for the GSA. Apart from an ability to carry a mega load of luggage - with space for a hair dryer, too - the GSA also has a 33 litre fuel tank, longer travel suspension and, of course, serious off-road capability. If we are in the Badlands of South Dakota or similar and want to see something that entails travel on a gravel road, we won't think twice about it.
So the bike was acquired in September 2012, allowing sufficient time to set it up for the journey. The additions are well documented by the photographs in the other section of this website. We have also had time to look at appropriate protective gear, lightweight clothing (merino wool) for riding and leisure, and plan itineraries.
As part of the research around acquiring a bike in the USA, it was determined that Portland Oregon would be the point of departure, as it is a low/no tax state. By happy coincidence, that is where the shipping company sends the bikes!
The bike gets loaded on the ship in mid-June and (DV) we leave in late July for the adventure of a lifetime.
We are now attending to administration - insurance, roadside assistance etc, planning sight seeing and arranging to visit family and friends. We hope you will join us for part or all of the ride!
Comments
Heinrich R.K. VOGES 24/07/2013 22:48 I wish you all the best for the flight and a good arrival in Portland.
Vati
Three Months to Go
27/04/2013
Since the last post, a couple of additions have been made to the bike. Perhaps chief among these is the alteration to my saddle. What a difference it makes to extended periods on the road; and my bum is very grateful for this. We also have sheepskins for the ride, which will only improve comfort. Liz has given the custom-made backrest the tick of approval
There has been a bit of a wobbly with shipping arrangements. Instead of leaving from Melbourne on about 6 June, the bike leaves from Sydney on 15 May. To add to my chagrin over this, the shipper cancelled the October return and asked me to get the bike back to Portland by 16 September. On that date I am scheduled to be either in Texas or New Mexico! I made some enquiries and have found a number of outfits that will ship single bikes at short notice. It does cost more and they also prefer to ship from designated ports. I am searching for one in Portland Oregon! Otherwise I will simply have to get the bike to Los Angeles.
We have conducted two trial packs. The first was clothes and stuff (read cosmetics and hairdryer :-)) and it looks like we will be ok for space. The second was our riding suits, one helmet and Liz's riding boots, into the panniers, as they will ship over with the bike. That is also ok and we can also fit in a number of other small items. The final trial pack will take place on the weekend of 11 May.
The week of 6 May will see the bike serviced and a new front tyre fitted. It will then be ready and I will ride it to Sydney.
All that remains to do is buy travel insurance, bike insurance, roadside assistance, the satellite weather and traffic and upgrade the satellite-tracking program. These have all been sourced and it is just a case of parting with the money.
Some may wonder what I am going to do without a bike while mine is on the ship. Well, I was planning to buy one and then sell it again; but I have a truly amazing and generous friend, David P, who has offered to lend me his BMW 1150GS.
Comments
Hein Preller 16/06/2013 02:46 Duncan, all the best with your trip. Trust the GS will go well.
Looking forward to your posts and blogs on the website.
All the best
Hein
27/04/2013
Since the last post, a couple of additions have been made to the bike. Perhaps chief among these is the alteration to my saddle. What a difference it makes to extended periods on the road; and my bum is very grateful for this. We also have sheepskins for the ride, which will only improve comfort. Liz has given the custom-made backrest the tick of approval
There has been a bit of a wobbly with shipping arrangements. Instead of leaving from Melbourne on about 6 June, the bike leaves from Sydney on 15 May. To add to my chagrin over this, the shipper cancelled the October return and asked me to get the bike back to Portland by 16 September. On that date I am scheduled to be either in Texas or New Mexico! I made some enquiries and have found a number of outfits that will ship single bikes at short notice. It does cost more and they also prefer to ship from designated ports. I am searching for one in Portland Oregon! Otherwise I will simply have to get the bike to Los Angeles.
We have conducted two trial packs. The first was clothes and stuff (read cosmetics and hairdryer :-)) and it looks like we will be ok for space. The second was our riding suits, one helmet and Liz's riding boots, into the panniers, as they will ship over with the bike. That is also ok and we can also fit in a number of other small items. The final trial pack will take place on the weekend of 11 May.
The week of 6 May will see the bike serviced and a new front tyre fitted. It will then be ready and I will ride it to Sydney.
All that remains to do is buy travel insurance, bike insurance, roadside assistance, the satellite weather and traffic and upgrade the satellite-tracking program. These have all been sourced and it is just a case of parting with the money.
Some may wonder what I am going to do without a bike while mine is on the ship. Well, I was planning to buy one and then sell it again; but I have a truly amazing and generous friend, David P, who has offered to lend me his BMW 1150GS.
Comments
Hein Preller 16/06/2013 02:46 Duncan, all the best with your trip. Trust the GS will go well.
Looking forward to your posts and blogs on the website.
All the best
Hein
Counting Sleeps
29/06/2013
8 Comments
On May 14 I rode the bike to Sydney, overnighted there with my sister and her husband and the next day rode to the container depot where the bikes were loaded for the trip to Portland Oregon. A shade over 900 kms and twelve hours to my sister's place, a little under nine hours in the saddle.
The ride up was a very useful exercise. I learned a lot about the bike, the GPS unit, satellite tracker, my clothing and, most importantly, myself. The cruise control might have cost a lot, but it is invaluable for reducing fatigue on long stretches. It also delivers a steady speed within the limit, avoiding fines. I figure it is well along the way to paying for itself.
Having a thermometer on the bike was very useful, as I could monitor how I felt as the temperature fluctuated. From that I now understand what I need to wear to keep comfortable - and safe. It rained for some 300 kms and I am confident that my gear is waterproof; and I am delighted with the ventilation and visibility of my new Schuberth C3 helmet. Pinlock visors are really indispensible in cold, wet weather. The resculpting of my saddle together with the sheepskin cover meant my posterior travelled very comfortably.
The ride itself was uneventful, except for discovering in the first few hours that I had underestimated the warmth of my gear. When travelling at 110kmh, 6 degrees C is cold! I made an extra stop to eat and drink; and put on another layer. Turning the handle grip heaters on high helped, but the flip side of that was the realisation that the gloves are not quite adequate at those temperatures.
The bikes were loaded without incident and I flew home. It was strange and frustrating not having a bike at home and for two days I was relegated to using public transport for my daily commute to work. At this juncture I must record my gratitude to my friend and colleague, David P, who has so generously loaned me his BMW R1150GS while my bike is away.
To my chagrin, I learned that, before the ship headed across the Pacific, it called in.......at Melbourne!! I believe there is no need for me to elaborate on that.
Today is Saturday June 29 and, according to my information, the bikes reached Portland yesterday. A friend from my youth, Louise L, lives in Portland; and will very kindly be checking on the welfare of the bike when it clears Customs sometime next week.
We have been steadily attending to the outstanding matters. Travel insurance (CGU) was rather costly, but who is going to visit the USA under-insured? Not us! The satellite weather, traffic and radio subscription has been acquired, but I cannot activate it until we arrive in PDX. I hope it is quick and simple. That is something I will have to learn how to use while on the road. An unforeseen expense was getting another camera. I concluded the big DSLR was too big, and we decided upon a smaller Sony NEX 6. Final items are bike insurance/roadside assist, a cover for the bike and some odds and sods.
We have decided that we will not make accommodation reservations, except where we consider availability might be an issue. eg Yellowstone. That has been booked, and just as well. The park itself was already full and we have to stay outside. Our one night in New York has been booked on the same basis. Oh yes, also the ferry across Lake Michigan. Leaving as much open as possible gives us flexibility to vary our route a bit and move as the spirit takes us.
In closing this post, I yesterday had lunch with my friend John B. John and I attended the same school, and some twenty years and a continent away, we by chance renewed acquaintance at Lake Mountain, a snow resort a couple of hours outside Melbourne. We have remained friends and as it happens, he is also a biker. He told me that he and his wife are renting a bike in LAX . We have made tentative arrangements to meet them in Colorado and then ride together to at least South Dakota, perhaps even all the way to Wisconsin! How great is that??
I will probably post once more just before we fly out.
Twenty seven sleeps to go!
Comments
Andre 20/07/2013 20:08
Well its down to what now, something like 5?
You must both be super excited. You guys are going to have a blast, what an experience. Lee would shoot me before she ever got on the back of a bike, good for you Liz :)
Look forward to seeing you soon and hearing all the news. Will watch here of course but always best to hear the stories in person! :)
Reply Duncan 23/07/2013 19:58
Andre, thanks for your comments and we are looking forward to our time with you, not the least because we actually sleep in the same bed two nights in a row. Well, we hope we do!
Reply Charles 23/07/2013 16:11
Hi guys!
I'm envious! Hope you have a wonderful and safe trip!
I have been a member of a group of bike enthusiasts for many years now. Its called Abjaterskop (for a bunch of rather obscure reasons). Anyway this rag-tag group of blokes (about 8 or 10 in total) all have a keen intrest in motorcycles, and specifically BMW GS's, and anything else mechanical. Most are ex-"Old Country" people and are scattered around the world, some of whom are still in SA.
With your permission, I'd like to pass on your blog to the group who I am sure will watch your progress with keen interest! One of the guys lives in the USA and may be a great contact to have whilst there.
Also, if you are interested I could "invite" you to join the group (I think by your very ownership of the 'right' bike and the adventure you are embarking on, you will be warmly welcomed).
All the best and stay safe
Charles
Reply Duncan 23/07/2013 19:57
Charles, thank you for your good wishes. All moral support is very welcome! Feel free to pass the blog along. It is public and we hope to share ideas. I would also be interested to hear more about the 'Abjaterskop' group. There must be an interesting story about that name!
Reply Charles 23/07/2013 20:13
Hi Duncan
We are soooo envious!!
I'll pass on the blog details. One of the blokes is in the 'states. Who knows, he may even catch up with you.
Abjaters, ja well no fine,.... these guys are all profesisoinals with a common interest in bikes but also photography, sciences, travel, beer, wine, cars, scuba diving, etc etc. You get the idea. My connectioin is I was at school with one of them. I have met a few of the others through our travels. Good blokes indeed!
If you like I will pass on your email details to the administrator and he will include you in the group.
Reply Heinrich R.K. Voges 24/07/2013 05:24
I wish you a ll the best for your journey. May you be protected by the Triune God.
Madume
Vati
Reply Liz 24/07/2013 21:12
Danke Vati!
Reply DCR 25/07/2013 00:46
Hi Duncan and Liz,
Truly an amazing trip planned for the two of you and we will follow it with interest here in Queen Street.
Bon voyage and safe travels
29/06/2013
8 Comments
On May 14 I rode the bike to Sydney, overnighted there with my sister and her husband and the next day rode to the container depot where the bikes were loaded for the trip to Portland Oregon. A shade over 900 kms and twelve hours to my sister's place, a little under nine hours in the saddle.
The ride up was a very useful exercise. I learned a lot about the bike, the GPS unit, satellite tracker, my clothing and, most importantly, myself. The cruise control might have cost a lot, but it is invaluable for reducing fatigue on long stretches. It also delivers a steady speed within the limit, avoiding fines. I figure it is well along the way to paying for itself.
Having a thermometer on the bike was very useful, as I could monitor how I felt as the temperature fluctuated. From that I now understand what I need to wear to keep comfortable - and safe. It rained for some 300 kms and I am confident that my gear is waterproof; and I am delighted with the ventilation and visibility of my new Schuberth C3 helmet. Pinlock visors are really indispensible in cold, wet weather. The resculpting of my saddle together with the sheepskin cover meant my posterior travelled very comfortably.
The ride itself was uneventful, except for discovering in the first few hours that I had underestimated the warmth of my gear. When travelling at 110kmh, 6 degrees C is cold! I made an extra stop to eat and drink; and put on another layer. Turning the handle grip heaters on high helped, but the flip side of that was the realisation that the gloves are not quite adequate at those temperatures.
The bikes were loaded without incident and I flew home. It was strange and frustrating not having a bike at home and for two days I was relegated to using public transport for my daily commute to work. At this juncture I must record my gratitude to my friend and colleague, David P, who has so generously loaned me his BMW R1150GS while my bike is away.
To my chagrin, I learned that, before the ship headed across the Pacific, it called in.......at Melbourne!! I believe there is no need for me to elaborate on that.
Today is Saturday June 29 and, according to my information, the bikes reached Portland yesterday. A friend from my youth, Louise L, lives in Portland; and will very kindly be checking on the welfare of the bike when it clears Customs sometime next week.
We have been steadily attending to the outstanding matters. Travel insurance (CGU) was rather costly, but who is going to visit the USA under-insured? Not us! The satellite weather, traffic and radio subscription has been acquired, but I cannot activate it until we arrive in PDX. I hope it is quick and simple. That is something I will have to learn how to use while on the road. An unforeseen expense was getting another camera. I concluded the big DSLR was too big, and we decided upon a smaller Sony NEX 6. Final items are bike insurance/roadside assist, a cover for the bike and some odds and sods.
We have decided that we will not make accommodation reservations, except where we consider availability might be an issue. eg Yellowstone. That has been booked, and just as well. The park itself was already full and we have to stay outside. Our one night in New York has been booked on the same basis. Oh yes, also the ferry across Lake Michigan. Leaving as much open as possible gives us flexibility to vary our route a bit and move as the spirit takes us.
In closing this post, I yesterday had lunch with my friend John B. John and I attended the same school, and some twenty years and a continent away, we by chance renewed acquaintance at Lake Mountain, a snow resort a couple of hours outside Melbourne. We have remained friends and as it happens, he is also a biker. He told me that he and his wife are renting a bike in LAX . We have made tentative arrangements to meet them in Colorado and then ride together to at least South Dakota, perhaps even all the way to Wisconsin! How great is that??
I will probably post once more just before we fly out.
Twenty seven sleeps to go!
Comments
Andre 20/07/2013 20:08
Well its down to what now, something like 5?
You must both be super excited. You guys are going to have a blast, what an experience. Lee would shoot me before she ever got on the back of a bike, good for you Liz :)
Look forward to seeing you soon and hearing all the news. Will watch here of course but always best to hear the stories in person! :)
Reply Duncan 23/07/2013 19:58
Andre, thanks for your comments and we are looking forward to our time with you, not the least because we actually sleep in the same bed two nights in a row. Well, we hope we do!
Reply Charles 23/07/2013 16:11
Hi guys!
I'm envious! Hope you have a wonderful and safe trip!
I have been a member of a group of bike enthusiasts for many years now. Its called Abjaterskop (for a bunch of rather obscure reasons). Anyway this rag-tag group of blokes (about 8 or 10 in total) all have a keen intrest in motorcycles, and specifically BMW GS's, and anything else mechanical. Most are ex-"Old Country" people and are scattered around the world, some of whom are still in SA.
With your permission, I'd like to pass on your blog to the group who I am sure will watch your progress with keen interest! One of the guys lives in the USA and may be a great contact to have whilst there.
Also, if you are interested I could "invite" you to join the group (I think by your very ownership of the 'right' bike and the adventure you are embarking on, you will be warmly welcomed).
All the best and stay safe
Charles
Reply Duncan 23/07/2013 19:57
Charles, thank you for your good wishes. All moral support is very welcome! Feel free to pass the blog along. It is public and we hope to share ideas. I would also be interested to hear more about the 'Abjaterskop' group. There must be an interesting story about that name!
Reply Charles 23/07/2013 20:13
Hi Duncan
We are soooo envious!!
I'll pass on the blog details. One of the blokes is in the 'states. Who knows, he may even catch up with you.
Abjaters, ja well no fine,.... these guys are all profesisoinals with a common interest in bikes but also photography, sciences, travel, beer, wine, cars, scuba diving, etc etc. You get the idea. My connectioin is I was at school with one of them. I have met a few of the others through our travels. Good blokes indeed!
If you like I will pass on your email details to the administrator and he will include you in the group.
Reply Heinrich R.K. Voges 24/07/2013 05:24
I wish you a ll the best for your journey. May you be protected by the Triune God.
Madume
Vati
Reply Liz 24/07/2013 21:12
Danke Vati!
Reply DCR 25/07/2013 00:46
Hi Duncan and Liz,
Truly an amazing trip planned for the two of you and we will follow it with interest here in Queen Street.
Bon voyage and safe travels
Ready to Go - Almost!
25/07/2013
0 Comments
This is the night before we go. One sleep - if we can sleep!
The planning for this trip has been quite minute in some ways, but notwithstanding, the last couple of days have been frantic with last minute chores, errands, documentation etc. Oh, and a visit to the doctor and then the pharmacist for some sleeping tablets. The idea is that we WILL sleep on the plane and not feel like zombies when we arrive at LAX.
We have done some packing and are presently on a break to have dinner and chat with our two girls. Quite jolly it is, but immediately after this post it is back to packing.
We have been quite overwhelmed by the kind interest shown in our adventure by colleagues, family and friends. Thank you. The moral support is much appreciated.
The flight leaves at 09h30 tomorrow and we are so keen that Qantas fly on time and indeed, arrive early: we have a two hour window for our connecting flight. I, in particular, am rather focussed on being reunited with the bike and Friday is better than Monday.
Time to close and get packing. Our next post will probably be date-lined Portland, Oregon.
25/07/2013
0 Comments
This is the night before we go. One sleep - if we can sleep!
The planning for this trip has been quite minute in some ways, but notwithstanding, the last couple of days have been frantic with last minute chores, errands, documentation etc. Oh, and a visit to the doctor and then the pharmacist for some sleeping tablets. The idea is that we WILL sleep on the plane and not feel like zombies when we arrive at LAX.
We have done some packing and are presently on a break to have dinner and chat with our two girls. Quite jolly it is, but immediately after this post it is back to packing.
We have been quite overwhelmed by the kind interest shown in our adventure by colleagues, family and friends. Thank you. The moral support is much appreciated.
The flight leaves at 09h30 tomorrow and we are so keen that Qantas fly on time and indeed, arrive early: we have a two hour window for our connecting flight. I, in particular, am rather focussed on being reunited with the bike and Friday is better than Monday.
Time to close and get packing. Our next post will probably be date-lined Portland, Oregon.
Dateline: Portland Oregon
27/07/2013
0 Comments
The flight out of Melbourne on the A380 was delayed, causing us to miss our connection from LAX to Portland. Arriving in LAX, a swift fifty bucks saw us booked on the 11.40 am which was itself slightly delayed. So we arrived at PDX some three and a half hours late but that was still plenty of time to collect the bike.
On the way to collect it we stopped briefly at the USPS to send some parcels ahead (Andre and Lee in Wisconsin and my nephew Alex in New York) and then to Summit NW to collect the bike. I confess my heart leapt ever so slightly to see her standing there. I reconnected the battery, smacked on the panniers and headed out the gate, reminding myself all the while to keep right! But what a pleasure she is to ride: smooth, balanced, powerful, responsive!
I GPS'd my way to a local Chevron to fill up with petrol (what are gallons, again?) and then took off to the hotel in Lake Oswego where Liz had preceded me in the cab. A shower, an iPhone call to my old friend from Wendywood, Louise, and a snooze, after which I fitted the Illium Works highway pegs which I had waiting for me at the hotel.
Refreshed, kind of, we walked over the road for dinner at Stanford's. I had yummy ribs and Liz polished off a grilled salmon. I guess we should mention the baked slab of brie with garlic that was our appetiser!
Back to the hotel for a chemically assisted sleep which was very restful.
Today, Saturday, Louise has very kindly offered to show us around Portland. That will be interesting and also we can fill in the forty or so years since we last saw each other! Hopefully some photos in the next post.
Otherwise, tomorrow we start the journey!
27/07/2013
0 Comments
The flight out of Melbourne on the A380 was delayed, causing us to miss our connection from LAX to Portland. Arriving in LAX, a swift fifty bucks saw us booked on the 11.40 am which was itself slightly delayed. So we arrived at PDX some three and a half hours late but that was still plenty of time to collect the bike.
On the way to collect it we stopped briefly at the USPS to send some parcels ahead (Andre and Lee in Wisconsin and my nephew Alex in New York) and then to Summit NW to collect the bike. I confess my heart leapt ever so slightly to see her standing there. I reconnected the battery, smacked on the panniers and headed out the gate, reminding myself all the while to keep right! But what a pleasure she is to ride: smooth, balanced, powerful, responsive!
I GPS'd my way to a local Chevron to fill up with petrol (what are gallons, again?) and then took off to the hotel in Lake Oswego where Liz had preceded me in the cab. A shower, an iPhone call to my old friend from Wendywood, Louise, and a snooze, after which I fitted the Illium Works highway pegs which I had waiting for me at the hotel.
Refreshed, kind of, we walked over the road for dinner at Stanford's. I had yummy ribs and Liz polished off a grilled salmon. I guess we should mention the baked slab of brie with garlic that was our appetiser!
Back to the hotel for a chemically assisted sleep which was very restful.
Today, Saturday, Louise has very kindly offered to show us around Portland. That will be interesting and also we can fill in the forty or so years since we last saw each other! Hopefully some photos in the next post.
Otherwise, tomorrow we start the journey!
After a thoroughly pleasant day in the company of my old friend Louise, who so kindly gave up her Saturday to showcase Portland for us, we were invited home to meet her husband Alan and share a light dinner with a bottle of very good Oregon Pinot Noir. We were also pleased to meet their son Michael; (also a biker, he turned up on a Ducati) and daughter-in-law, Oshrit.
We had an early night and rose early to pack. After a good breakfast we loaded the bike and hit the road. A little to my surprise the Garmin guided us smoothly out of Portland, taking us over the spectacular double-decker I5 and up the Columbia River Gorge. The dream was now a reality.
The Columbia River Gorge is a marvellous spectacle. It is a capital R River, navigable for perhaps 160 Kms from the sea. It is an archetypal drowned glacier, with the high, steep sides a feature of the topography on both banks for miles. We made our first stop at Cascade Locks to just check on things and we each had a cup of hot chocolate. $3.00! The GPS then led us across the river at the Hood Bridge and we entered Washington State. The road was quiet and afforded the opportunity for some higher speed touring :-). The vegetation changed and the landscape appeared quite arid in places and it rapidly became warmer. We stopped briefly for a leg stretch in Prosser and then for lunch in Umatilla WA before pressing on to our final stop for the day in Walla Walla WA, arriving about 2.15.
A couple of things need sorting. The intercom, which should be straight forward; and then the satellite antenna connection for the GPS. That will be far from simple. Grrr.
I will also now try and load some pics! And decide on tomorrow's route.
Comments
MHB 28/07/2013 16:39
Duncan, sorry I missed you before you left but I am back at work now. Terrific website you have set up and great to hear the long planned adventure has at last begun.Take care and have a blast. I will be following your adventure with interest and envy. Remember - keep right!
Reply Louise Levin 28/07/2013 18:04
It was so wonderful to meet Liz and to see you after all these years. It was a complete blast from the past! Ride safely, remember "right is right," and I'll see you when you return.
1 Comment
Walla Walla is, in the downtown area, quite charming. A university town, it also has more winery cellar doors per capita than I have seen anywhere else in the world. How do they all make a living? As we strolled around late on Sunday afternoon we came across an open air concert, very small and intimate. They were an Irish tribute band which from time to time invited the audience to sing along. Liz really enjoyed "The Wide Rover" and I too joined in the chorus. It was OK, no one knew us and we were leaving in the morning!
Which we did. Just before eight we were on the road to Lewiston Idaho. A perfect morning to be out on the bike, with the sun shining and a hint of freshness in the air. We were amazed at the size of the wheat farms! Morning tea was in Pomeroy WA where in reply to the (ridiculously) hopeful question "do you have cappuccino?" came the answer: "We have cah-fee".
A short while after this we were cruising down a hill when a car coming in the opposite direction produced a set of flashing red and blue lights and did a U turn to come after me. It was Mr Plod. Oops. I was doing 70mph when the State limit is 60. He was very terse to start with but eased up a bit when he saw he had a foreigner on his hands. He very earnestly explained miles per hour to me and sent us on our way. Thank goodness Idaho was a short distance away, as there I was/am still unknown to the constabulary.
Downtown Lewiston is very pretty, almost European, but we only stopped to feed the GPS with instructions to take us to Missoula. Route 12, also renowned as the Lolo Pass, is absolutely beautiful. It follows the Clearwater River through the heavily forested mountains which are well populated with deer, bears, wolves etc. Liz saw a deer but I was focused on the terrific curves. There was a sign which said "Winding Road 56 Miles" and I just could not get the smile off my face!
However, there was this incident where I opened my visor for a second (literally) in order to sip some water from the camelback; and an insect of some description took that small window of opportunity to try and navigate down my right nostril at 80kph! Thankfully, its GPS was slightly off and it smashed itself into oblivion on the rim with my lip. It might have been a stinger, it might not have; but either way its head went through its backside or vice versa and it stung like crazy!! I pulled over briefly and it took a few minutes for the throbbing to subside. No damage evident, so off we went. I really cannot understand folk who ride without helmets and visors.
This route, based on the original Lewis and Clark exploration trail, was recommended to me by Lodewyk, to whom I was introduced by Charles R in Brisbane JUST before we left. Dankie julle al twee.
So it was through the extraordinarily pretty Lolo pass to Missoula. It was a long day: 502 kms/312 miles, nine hours door to door. Our legs are stiff our bums are sore and we are tired!
1 Comment
Comments
Charles 30/07/2013 15:41 And I bet they don't have "flat whites" either! For those that have not been to Oz, after beer, this is the Australian National Drink (sort of like a cappuchino without the chocolate).
Glad you took up Loods's suggestion! I'm getting more and more envious, and this is only day two!
Walla Walla is, in the downtown area, quite charming. A university town, it also has more winery cellar doors per capita than I have seen anywhere else in the world. How do they all make a living? As we strolled around late on Sunday afternoon we came across an open air concert, very small and intimate. They were an Irish tribute band which from time to time invited the audience to sing along. Liz really enjoyed "The Wide Rover" and I too joined in the chorus. It was OK, no one knew us and we were leaving in the morning!
Which we did. Just before eight we were on the road to Lewiston Idaho. A perfect morning to be out on the bike, with the sun shining and a hint of freshness in the air. We were amazed at the size of the wheat farms! Morning tea was in Pomeroy WA where in reply to the (ridiculously) hopeful question "do you have cappuccino?" came the answer: "We have cah-fee".
A short while after this we were cruising down a hill when a car coming in the opposite direction produced a set of flashing red and blue lights and did a U turn to come after me. It was Mr Plod. Oops. I was doing 70mph when the State limit is 60. He was very terse to start with but eased up a bit when he saw he had a foreigner on his hands. He very earnestly explained miles per hour to me and sent us on our way. Thank goodness Idaho was a short distance away, as there I was/am still unknown to the constabulary.
Downtown Lewiston is very pretty, almost European, but we only stopped to feed the GPS with instructions to take us to Missoula. Route 12, also renowned as the Lolo Pass, is absolutely beautiful. It follows the Clearwater River through the heavily forested mountains which are well populated with deer, bears, wolves etc. Liz saw a deer but I was focused on the terrific curves. There was a sign which said "Winding Road 56 Miles" and I just could not get the smile off my face!
However, there was this incident where I opened my visor for a second (literally) in order to sip some water from the camelback; and an insect of some description took that small window of opportunity to try and navigate down my right nostril at 80kph! Thankfully, its GPS was slightly off and it smashed itself into oblivion on the rim with my lip. It might have been a stinger, it might not have; but either way its head went through its backside or vice versa and it stung like crazy!! I pulled over briefly and it took a few minutes for the throbbing to subside. No damage evident, so off we went. I really cannot understand folk who ride without helmets and visors.
This route, based on the original Lewis and Clark exploration trail, was recommended to me by Lodewyk, to whom I was introduced by Charles R in Brisbane JUST before we left. Dankie julle al twee.
So it was through the extraordinarily pretty Lolo pass to Missoula. It was a long day: 502 kms/312 miles, nine hours door to door. Our legs are stiff our bums are sore and we are tired!
1 Comment
Comments
Charles 30/07/2013 15:41 And I bet they don't have "flat whites" either! For those that have not been to Oz, after beer, this is the Australian National Drink (sort of like a cappuchino without the chocolate).
Glad you took up Loods's suggestion! I'm getting more and more envious, and this is only day two!
After a light breakfast we left Missoula on the Interstate and after a short distance with the morning sun in our eyes, swung off north onto Route 200 towards Helena, the capital of Montana. We will, as far as possible, be taking the byways. The countryside was pretty, but far different from the forested hills and mountains of the previous day in Idaho. Again, we were struck by the extent of the wheat farms, which go for miles.
The general speed limit was 70 mph and most folk (including moi) were quite good at observing it. I was very, very impressed with the design of the bends in the roads, which could in almost every instance be taken at the speed limit. I recall only one advisory of 55 mph.
Helena is very pretty downtown, with several interesting shops and restaurants. The older suburbs are charming; but there ain't too much happening in Helena. (Pronounced Helen-a). We spent a few minutes scheming on how to take a photo of a lady vicar outside a cafe, without giving ourselves away. The resultant photos were too small and had no impact. Deleted.
On the way to Helena we stopped in Avon, looking for coffee. No joy, but we did find the post office. So we posted my headphones back to Portland (thanks, Louise) and discovered that the only other person in the "queue" - owned a cafe a mile down the road. The Avon Cafe has an espresso machine. It must be thirty years old. So are their coffee beans! But the very jolly waitress insisted on making a cappuccino for Liz. It was barely potable, but I can report that their pecan pie is delicious!
Helena to Bozeman was a flattish and straightish road, with no remarkable anything. The last thirty five miles into Bozeman were on the I90 where 75mph was the speed limit. I flicked out the highway pegs, set the cruise control and relaxed.
Downtown Bozeman is also attractive, just one main street it seems; and it was quite busy. So many towns have commercial-looking suburbs with a harsh ambience. We checked into the hotel, which charges like it is located in New York. Tomorrow we will stay in Bozeman as our Yellowstone booking could not be brought forward a day. But we will move to another lodging that offers better value for money.
Comments Chris 31/07/2013 16:28
Great to hear your on your way, looking forward to kdeping track of the adventure. :)
Reply Boz 01/08/2013 04:09
Hi I've been following your blog for months and anticipating the trip! Loved the trip prep posts and now living the journey with you guys. I wish you all the best, have loads of fun!
I'm a GS Adventure rider also but just been day/overnight touring around NSW. Planning on doing Tassie early next year. You've inspired me to try and get a blog up too.
Can't wait for the next installment!
On our second day in Bozeman we did the touristy bit. In the morning. We traveled out of town to see the grizzly bears. Rather impressive creatures with rapacious appetites. Unlike the story of Goldilocks, when it comes to food these guys will not let anything get in their way. It was then lunch time and we went to the city centre and ate well and very reasonably at the Co-op on the main street. In the afternoon we visited the Palisade Falls in the Hyalite Canyon, a pleasant ride with a short walk rewarded by a beautiful spectacle.
A word about accommodation in Bozeman. The first night at the Best Western Gran Tree (sic) was in a modest room, no breakfast included and at a premium price indeed. My Scottish thriftiness was deeply offended so in the morning we decamped around the corner to the TLC Inn where the tariff was over a third better, but still not inexpensive. It was a shocker. Non-smoking room? Ha! The breakfast was so unappetizing we went back to the Best Western and paid! Bottom line: hotels in Bozeman are expensive, even the cheap ones! For dinner on the last night we went out of town to The Mint at Belgrade, recommended by a fellow ADVrider. Yep, good; and in the ball park price-wise. Emerging from the restaurant, we observed that the sky in the direction of Bozeman was black; and being pierced with lightning. We did not have our rain gear with us, so I opened the throttle and raced the rain back to the hotel. Mission accomplished: we got home dry.
The ride to West Yellowstone was cool, pretty and a little damp from the spray on the road from the spectacular storms the night before. Yes, you guessed it, I had washed my bike! As it was a short ride we had an early lunch in that tourist trap that is West Yellowstone MT and then took off to the Park. First use of our Annual Pass! We visited Firehole Canyon/river/falls and were really taken with its beauty - and the thousands of people wanting to swim there!
We then decided to turn around and go north because we would be riding the same road the next day, heading south. That decision took us past our first thermal activity, Beryl Spring. Small, but to us exciting. What a curtain raiser to the Norris Geyser Basin! Steamboat Geyser had erupted the day before for the first time in five years and our 'evidence' of the occasion was the empty Cistern Spring.
The next day we checked out and headed back to the Park and turned south for Old Faithful, something I had aspired to visit for most of my life. It was superb to arrive and observe the expectant crowd - clearly we would not have long to wait. And we didn't! We found a couple of seats in the front row and five minutes later were treated to a stunning display as the geyser rocketed perhaps one hundred or more feet into the air. It was just beautiful, fulfilling every expectation.
Feeling very privileged we continued our journey, stopping here and there to take photos and stretch our legs.
The next spectacle was the Grand Tetons. How majestically they rise to view! We stopped at Colter Bay to take photos and then had lunch. In the café we met Jeff and Gabriela from Texas, also on a BMW GS-powered tour of the USA. (Hi guys, it was great to meet you and Utah 12 is in our sights!) After lunch we made course for Jackson WY and at the turnoff I stopped to check my map - and noticed the camera wasn't in the tank bag! I had left it in the café hanging over the back of my chair. I turned around and kinda ignored the speed limit for a while. Fortunately a chap handed it in shortly after we arrived back. Whew!
On our way again to Jackson, there is a stretch of road that heads directly towards the mountains. I thought to myself, 'it is as if these mountains are marching towards us'. They are even more impressive than they are beautiful. They are just so in your face.
We stopped at Jackson, another tourist trap, where we sat in the sun enjoying a coffee (Liz) and a smoothie (Duncan), priced like a big city. Hate to think how much they would cost in ski season. After a walk along the main street which did not improve our impression of the place (although it may well be popular - the placed was packed) we arrived back at the bike to find another GSA being backed in next to ours. We had quite a good chat to fellow ADVrider Meat Eater and his wife, who were on their way home to Ohio from California. (Hi guys, great to chat. Please make contact when you come to Australia.)
The remainder of that day's ride took us to Alpine WY to a clean, affordable and basic motel. There ain't much choice in Alpine WY! But close by was this diner, where guns were allowed, perhaps even welcomed; and the walls were COVERED with patriotic paraphernalia. Serving military personnel ate free. Food was basic but good and I could not resist the hot fudge sundae for dessert. At breakfast, the conversation at the next table was about guns and ammo. I figure a Democrat would suffocate to death in there!
An early morning start out of Alpine (didn't forget anything although Liz's prescription sunglasses gave us a momentary scare) saw cool weather, only 8 degrees Celsius, which was the whole purpose of leaving early: we wanted to get some good miles in before the temperature rose. A petrol stop at Montpelier and then crisscrossing the state lines of Wyoming, Idaho and Utah on our way to Evanston WY where we stopped for lunch. What a pleasant little town that is. But we did not dally and took off for Orem UT, from where we write.
A comment has to be made on relative pricing of accommodation so far. This is the best room we have stayed in thus far and breakfast is included. Being a Holiday Inn, breakfast will be more than acceptable. The price is $10 more than the TLC dive in Bozeman, $55 less than the Best Western in Bozeman; far cheaper than the Hilton in Lake Oswego, Portland and the same price as the Best Western in Walla Walla. Finally, $60 cheaper than the Holiday Inn in Missoula. There is no discernible pattern. Does any one understand this?
Our next stop is Bryce Canyon City UT, for two nights. Utah 12 to Escalante will get us there.
Comments
Andre 04/08/2013 05:17 Great blogging Duncan, you have a talent for writing. I got the impression that you keep that bike spotless and sounds like I was right!
Reply Charles 04/08/2013 17:22 Ditto Andre's comment. Keep 'em coming. More photos! The place looks spectacular. Pity about the accommodation ..... :-)
This will be quite brief as we are about to catch the free shuttle to Bryce Canyon. (But see the Photos Tab for those uploaded later)
Having bumped into Jeff and Gabriela in Grand Teton NP, I amended the proposed route to Bryce Canyon to travel on Scenic Byway 12 via Escalante. On the way south, there was a long stretch of highway where the speed limit was 80mph. Nice to be legal :-)
The scenery as we travelled out of Orem (what a clean and tidy city) was already impressive - and then it only improved. The shapes of the mountains, the colours of the rocks, striations and crevices that tested one's imagination. A road over 9,000 feet high where the ground fell away by thousands of feet on either side - with no safety barriers! And then the road plunged through the most scenic passes, at one stage we descended 3,000 feet in a very short space of time.
Prior to that, coming into the hamlet of Loa, the bike had a severe wobble in a corner, and we landed up over the centre line. Fortunately the oncoming car was too far away to be really concerning, but you will understand that I was hugely concerned anyway. I originally thought I had hit oil, but later on worked out (empirically) that the bitumen used to fill the cracks was melting in the heat and giving as we went over in a lean. They are known as 'tar snakes'. Most appropriate. They bite motorcycles! I stiffened the suspension (a wonderful feature of the BMW bike) and it was not a problem thereafter.
We are here in Bryce Canyon City for two nights and so are fully unpacked and have done some laundry. Tomorrow we have a BIG day ahead of us, as there is no accommodation available between here and Cortez, Colorado, where we will be visiting Mesa Verde. Page, Arizona, where were originally planning to spend the night, is in the middle of the desert. It is summer and %$#@! hot! Why do so many people want to sleep there? Or are they all in transit, like us? Hopefully we can stop in there and take a flight over the Grand Canyon. Watch this space!
As we are spending a second night here, there was no need for rising at six am. Quite a luxury and we enjoyed the extra snooze. After our leisurely breakfast we took the free shuttle bus to the park which is a couple of miles to the south. (Free shuttle is dependent on you having an entry pass to the park, or an Annual pass)
We started at Bryce Point and were immediately taken with the amazing shapes of the hoodoos, formed by water and ice erosion, the grottos, windows and occasional arch. Sheer cliffs of a thousand feet or more; beautifully painted with a variety of colours: white, cream, pink and red, seemingly haphazard yet as if designed, and then the green of the trees and the valleys in the distance. Stunning, and more than stunning.
We took many photos, knowing they would be inadequate; but they will support and refresh our memories of this place and this trip for years to come.
On the bus for a short ride to Inspiration Point, and it is well named. It has a cleaner, more coherent look to it, perhaps less a riot of shapes and colours, more ordered if you like. It is possible to walk along the rim of the canyon to most of the established viewing points, but we took the shuttle (and yes, Liz took a photo and posted comments on Facebook about the scheduling!)
At Sunset Point yet another perspective of the canyon was revealed, even more amazing. Our range of amazing has certainly been expanded in one short week! Here and there are some footpaths down into the canyon, and one can walk all the way to Sunrise Point. I elected to go some of the way down and was rewarded with a different view which I found to be quite a powerful and moving experience. I have not seen anything like this in my life. The walk back up was a comparative breeze.
Talking about the weather, it was about 24C and the occasional breeze would waft by and we would enjoy the freshness it brought us. As you can see from the photos on the People and Places page it was partly cloudy, making the day very bearable compared to the day before, when it was 34C and quite unpleasant.
Bryce Canyon is quite compact and can be done in a morning if you happen to be on a schedule, but for the more active the hiking trails would keep you busy for a month!
Another destination that should not be missed!
Comments
Charles 06/08/2013 15:48 Your inscription under one of your photos: "We didn't get their names but importantly, he rides an Aprilia and she rides a Triumph Tiger". Classic!!! :-)
Bryce Canyon UT to Page AZ to Cortez CO
07/08/2013
07/08/2013
This was to be an epic day and it was, for more reasons than we expected.
We rose at 5.00 am for our early start and were checked out and on the bike by 6.00. It was still dark so we took it easy. The road to Kanab, Utah had minimal traffic so as it became light we were able to start making up time and were able to enjoy the scenery. I had planned to breakfast in Kanab but at that time of the day nothing was stirring and Liz said to press on to Page, AZ, where we arrived at 8.20 am. Good timing. Except it was 7.20. Arizona does not observe daylight saving! This we discovered at the airport where we hoped to get a flight over the Grand Canyon. After a couple of enquiries we organised a charter in a Cessna 407 and headed off for breakfast while "Bahb" arranged a pilot. On our return there was a bit of a delay over the weather and then we were go!
Our pilot Brett used his iPad to navigate us first over Marble Canyon, then the big daddy, the Grand. I had spotted Marble in my planning, but concluded we would not have time to visit, so this was a bonus; and we did the entire length of it! It is so interesting, cut quite narrowly and deeply into the desert plateau. Harsh and unforgiving country indeed. And then of course the Grand Canyon. The visibility was not the best, but the enormity of the place was still overwhelming! Photos, photos, photos!
The two hours went by in a flash and all too soon we were on our final approach. A real bonus for me was there were few humps and gyrations so I never felt even slightly queasy.
Back on the bike for the long haul to Cortez, stopping at the Blue Teapot in Kayenta AZ for lunch (good) and petrol. Hey! What's with the time?! Kayenta is on the Navajo Reservation and they DO observe daylight saving!
On our way again, this time to Monument Valley. Stopping to check the map, I took a five yard yard short-cut off the tar across the sand and OOPS! At zero mph the bike fell over! The sand was at least six inches deep and the fall was soft, dusty and rather distressing, especially for Liz. No damage done to us or the bike. I had been warned by many that ONE day, the bike would fall. OK guys, you were right. I hope it was the last. Getting it back up was a real strain, being so heavily laden and with a full tank! It is now academic, but I wonder if Liz had not been with me, whether I would have been able to get the bike back up by myself........
We took some photos at Monument Valley, rather good ones, I think, and then got underway again.
When we stopped for a break at a speck on the map in Utah called Montezuma Creek, about an hour from Cortez, I found a missed call and text message from our friends from Melbourne, John and Anne B, who are also in the USA, but on a rented Harley. The text said a) the gear linkage on their bike had broken and b) they were ....in Cortez! Their plan had been to make Durango that night. We told them where we staying and when we arrived at the Days Inn they were being dropped off at reception. Photo time! Now this is quite special, as John and I know each other from high school in South Africa and some twenty years later we met by chance on a snowfield outside Melbourne. We had a very pleasant dinner together and we are planning to meet up again in a few days and ride up to Mt Rushmore together.
We spent six hours and forty minutes in the saddle yesterday, about twelve and a half door to door. 650 kilometres, 406 miles. A scenic flight, a fall, and a chance meeting with old friends, all in one day. Epic!!
Mesa Verde National Park - Second Time Lucky
07/08/2013
07/08/2013
Having made a joint decision with John and Anne to breakfast at 8.30, we had the luxury of another lie in. Very welcome after a long day and, for us, a late-ish evening out at dinner.
We decided we would stay in Cortez to assist in any way with John's bike and so I ran him up to Chrome Mafia (!) at about 10 to check on matters. The part was being couriered in from Durango by an outfit called .... Kangaroo Hop! All good so far. John and Anne decided to stay another night in Cortez because their bike would only be ready after lunch. The heavy rain storms surrounding the area also helped us make our decision to stay. As we have two days up our sleeve, we can afford it. So late morning we jumped on the bike to go to Mesa Verde, nine miles out of town. We had not gone two miles when we rounded a bend to see lowering clouds and heavy rain! A smart about turn and back to the hotel where we vegged until about 2pm and then tried again. Still much rain activity around but not in our vicinity. So far so good. We show our Annual pass at the gate (only $20 more and we are square) and see it is twenty miles to the pueblos!!
No worries, riding is what we came for. A few drops of rain here and there but nothing to dampen us. A stop for lunch at the top (I now know what shredded pork is) and then on to Spruce House. A fascinating place, made more so by the excellent and informative museum. This place is a worthy holder of a World Heritage listing.
Time to get back to Cortez because the weather was closing in. It did rain on us for a while but the windshield and fairing kept us reasonably dry. The 65 mph stretch on the way home quickly dried off whatever dampness we had. We arrived back and I popped the cover on the bike just in time - we are experiencing a rather heavy rain storm.
We sure hope It clears by tomorrow for our ride north.
Cortez CO via Durango to ..... Hotchkiss CO!
09/08/2013
09/08/2013
With the Harley repaired, we took off in tandem for Durango to have a look at the famous train and then take the equally famous US550 - the Million Dollar Highway - to Ouray.
The weather was overcast and spitting but we arrived in Durango pretty dry and in plenty of time to get to the station and take photos of this old, narrow gauge locomotive. John and Anne had been booked to take a ride on it the day before, but the mishap with their Harley put the kibosh on that. What a pity! After it departed we enjoyed a walk along Durango's pleasant main street and dropped into a coffee bar for a cuppa. Liz gave it the big tick for flavour and quality. We strolled back to the bikes - only to find the fire brigade had deployed three engines with a ladder and were tidying up after a fire in a small shop. Big excitement in the immediate area! I did notice a number of unmarked police cars.....
We agreed to meet John and Anne for lunch in Ouray, about seventy miles up the road. They set off while we went to top up the tank. We were soon on our way and once we had cleared the city limits, settled down for some higher speed touring through the wide bends and ever increasing majesty of the Rocky Mountains. I was quite impressed when we crested a pass at 10,600 feet, only to find that a short while later we were cruising along at close to 11,000 feet. It was cool at about twelve degrees (C), but although quite overcast, there was no precipitation.
As we approached Silverton (the end of the railway line), we made a very scenic and quite dramatic descent to the outskirts of the town. The road became increasingly twisty which normally means more fun for bikers, but the number of ultra low speed hairpins took some of the shine off it. Up and down we went, through those most magnificent mountains, disappointed though that the light and poor visibility deterred us from stopping to take photos. About ten miles out of Ouray we observed heavy, black cloud and I opened the microphone to inform Liz that we were about to get wet. Not so much a prophecy as just recognising the obvious. Having successfully dodged rain storms from Montana, through Wyoming, Utah and Arizona, we were going to luck-out in Colorado. Shortly thereafter the rain was coming down in columns of three. The cars slowed to a crawl and with double solid centre lines all the way we were crawling with them. As we entered Ouray, the heavens simply opened. I was riding slowly down the main street, looking for John and Anne and hoping to find them under the canopy at a service station I can inform the reader that the Ourayans have invented the wheel but not the canopied service station. We got to the the end of the business district and no John I make a very ginger-ish U-turn and pull up outside a coffee shop. We dismounted, gave up on putting the cover on an already soaked sheepskin and fled inside, dripping like freshly laundered towels. Liz was not happy, and I was a little less phlegmatic than usual. We ordered our hot chocolates and then observed John and Anne coming slowly down the hill. He saw our bike and made an even more ginger-ish U-turn than had I.
Safely inside and after a warm drink and light lunch, the rain eased and then stopped, so we prepared to depart. John and Anne would turn east at Montrose to attend to family business in Silver City while we would continue north. We hope to meet in a few days, perhaps on the way to Mount Rushmore.
As we descended from the mountains the sky cleared and the temperature soared, peaking at 29C. We dried out in no time at all! In due course, we waved John and Anne goodbye and set course for Delta, where we turned off east for Carbondale. Not quite. We were once again heading towards the mountains and there, settled in like an angry Thor with lowering brow; dark clouds and lightning were dominating the direction of proposed travel. We entered a small town where I spotted a motel and rode straight in. If they had a room, we were taking it.
We are now in Hotchkiss CO. Never on our map, but serendipitously we are dry, warm and tomorrow is another day!
A Quiet Day. Hotchkiss to Kremmling CO
09/08/2013
09/08/2013
Small-town America is full of surprises, most of them pleasant. Having landed up in Hotchkiss simply in order to remain dry, we were ready to be unimpressed. The hotel didn't look like much but as we settled in we started to appreciate what we had. The room was large and the mattress was good. The laundry was adjacent to our room and well equipped. It was very clean and it was quiet. It was within walking distance of a supermarket and places to eat. The lady who checked us in was pleasant and helpful, as were the other folk in the town (perhaps village is more accurate) that we had dealings with. Dinner was good and reasonably priced as was breakfast over the road. We could easily have had the hotel's continental breakfast but limited ourselves to slipping a couple of hard boiled eggs into our pockets as we left.
It is quite often women who own and run many of these hospitality establishments and they are hardworking and often cheerful, although some are quite brusque as they seek to turn a dollar. No one has been rude, not in the slightest. There are so many tourists in the USA these days that we do not attract much attention, although the mention of the bike trip will quite often evoke interest. It is usually other bikers, or merely those with an interest in bikes, who will wander over and ask where we are from, or merely to admire the bike and chat.
We were on the bike at the usual time of 8 am and although sunny, it was rather cool. The scenery was very pretty as we have come to expect; and the rivers that run by the roads for mile after mile are such a feature of much of the America we have seen thus far. We passed through the coal mining village of Somerset, and I was interested to see a lengthy coal train. I wondered if any of the trucks were financed by ANZ Bank, my employer. I hope many! As the miles unfolded, I was reminded of a comment made some months ago by my work colleague Paul W, who has been on a few bike rides in the US. He had said that riding in Colorado was fantastic. This morning, in the sunshine, I understood: mile after mile of winding roads, in between soaring mountains and tumbling rivers. It really felt good.
A bit over an hour later we pulled in to another coal town, Carbondale. Despite its rather unprepossessing name, it was exceptionally neat and tidy and the main street very attractive. After a decent cappuccino, Liz got into traffic engineering mode and took a photo which appears on the People and Places page and which she also posted on Facebook. Yes, well!
Soon after we reached Glenwood Springs, much larger, but as neat. That took us onto the I90 to head east for a number of miles. As usual, the road followed a river - the Colorado - and it took us through the soaring mountains. How impressive! How beautiful! There are sections where the interstate in the opposite direction is elevated, and it is attractively done, even if I say so and I am no engineer.
We turned off north and once again enjoyed a quiet country road with wide, sweeping bends through a landscape of lower relief and varying vegetation. We crossed the Colorado at a point and went left as per the GPS instructions, but in the corner of my eye I saw a sign which said "Kremmling 32". As the GPS said 52 miles, I wanted to check this out and so turned back. This dot on the map is called State Bridge and is a destination for whitewater rafting and other river-based activities. The sign was correct, so we dismounted and looked for someone to make enquiries of. While I was looking around Liz took it easy in the sun :-)
No one was around so we looked at the map and consulted each other. The short road is designated a Scenic Byway and I was all for taking it, but Liz pointed out it was gravel. Liz prevailed. We took out our boiled eggs and munched them in the warm sun for a few more minutes. Very pleasant and relaxing.
Back on the bike and Oops! The clouds have come up! We recognised them from the day before and so I opened up a bit with the intention of getting to Kremmling before the rain did. We passed by some stretches where it had already rained but made it to the town with only a couple of drops on the way.
Over a rather decent and cheap lunch we decided we would not press on as we would surely get wet again. Recourse was had to the internet and we landed up finding a place (our second choice) where we got the last room with its own bathroom. The Estin Hotel is 107 years old and is slowly being refurbished while endeavouring to retain the period feel. They are succeeding and it is rather pleasant. As we left the restaurant, the heavens opened, but the hotel was just a couple of hundred yards away and we barely got damp.
Tomorrow we will indeed, DV, get to the Rocky Mountain National Park.
Rocky Mountain National Park
10/08/2013
10/08/2013
We decided on an early start from Kremmling and, after a brief chat to some Canadian bikers in front of the hotel, we were on the road at 7.05 am. This I remember because it was 7C, but in a few minutes, out of town, it was down to 5.5 And then it dropped to 4! Luckily we had anticipated this and dressed accordingly, but I still had the hand grip heaters on high!
The sun played with the fog on the fields, lifting it as it warmed the earth; but a few miles down Route 34 I was needing fog lights! I seriously considered turning back and waiting for it to clear, but thought we would rather stop in Grand Lake CO and wait it out if required. As we approached Grand Lake the fog was no more, but we stopped anyway and had breakfast, which was most pleasant. Liz was delighted to find the restaurant was selling South Africa rooibos tea.
A short while later we entered the Rocky Mountains National Park and our Annual Pass has paid for itself. Yeehaw!
We were expecting great scenery and were not disappointed, yet once again our photos cannot do it justice. One of the things about the RMNP is that Route 34 is one of the highest paved public roads in North America. And we were there. I stopped and took a photo of the GPS displaying the altitude, regretting I could not stop on the road where it peaked at 12,225 ft. The air is thin up there, and it was chilly!
At the top we also had a nice chat to a chap from Albuquerque NM on his two month old BMW R1200RT, as well as a film maker who shot a movie of the solar powered car race from Darwin to Adelaide a couple of years ago.
We made a good descent the other side and once clear of the glut of tourists in Estes Park, took Route 34 to the I25 and hightailed it north for Cheyenne WY, where we struck north east. A feature of that part of the ride was the hundreds of bikes, mainly Harleys, coming in the opposite direction - returning from the Sturgis Rally which concluded yesterday. Quite an unfriendly lot, actually, only a minority exchanging the Bikers' Salute. No matter.
We arrived in Torrington WY and decided we were tired and took the first available hotel room. They offered us ear plugs at check in. There is a railway line that passes through the centre of town! A decent dinner at at the diner next door and we are ready for bed. We are, happily, one day ahead of our notional schedule. It is pleasing to have that flexibility available.
Tomorrow we head for Mount Rushmore.
Via NW Nebraska to Custer SD
11/08/2013
1 Comment
11/08/2013
1 Comment
A false start leaving Torrington WY this morning. I pulled into a very old fashioned gas station and it had no credit card facility on the pump, rather a notice to serve myself and then go inside. No worries. I take the nozzle and flip the lever to reset and start pumping . No response. I try a couple of times, hang up the nozzle and march to the office. What a waste of time. They were closed. Sunday morning in Torrington! But no problem, on the main road east we found another gas station. I also pumped my rear tyre, having to pay fifty cents for the privilege. In terms of the time I took, they owe me 45 cents change.
OK. Tank is full, tyre pressures are exact and we are riding east. The scenery around here, eastern Wyoming, is not riveting. A few villages, some large acreages of corn and the odd factory or two. What is much in evidence are rail lines - and trains on them. Mainly coal, and very, very long. We like trains and enjoy seeing them.
Crossing the border into Nebraska, the couple of small towns through which we pass are not wealthy. A business that trades in used farm equipment looks to me like they could very easily become scrap metal dealers. I am not paying close enough attention to the GPS and I miss my turn to the north. Rather than turn around, I keep going towards Scott's Bluff, named for a prominent rock outcrop that rises out of the plain. It is interesting, but one would not normally make it a destination. The next turn I do not miss and northwards we go. Now John had suggested this route would be straight and boring. I can confirm that there are not that many bends, and they are not at all challenging; but I was fascinated by the vista of open space. This is farming country. The distances are large and the traffic minimal. The towns are seriously miles apart and there are NO facilities for travellers: no gas, no coffee, toilets or turnouts. You just keep going. As we did!
We took a small detour to Fort Robinson Nebraska, of which I will not attempt to add to the history captured in the photo above. BUT what must be mentioned was our (very) brief experience in the restaurant. We sat down, hoping for coffee. Our server arrived and introduced himself and said that they were serving lunch. I looked at my watched and glanced around the empty establishment. It is 10.30 am. Must we have lunch in order to have coffee? The answer was in the affirmative so we picked up our jackets and walked out. They should not be in the hospitality business.
So we walked across the lawn to the museum and Randy, the volunteer manning the front desk, delivered a short history of Chief Crazy Horse. Fascinating. He had our full attention. We then looked at the many exhibits which tell the history of Fort Robinson and it was really interesting. Indian artefacts showed artistry and flair. The beadwork was so delicate; and we now know what real moccasins look like. The fort was used as a prisoner of war camp for Germans in the 1940's and there were many artefacts and letters in German, which of course was of particular interest to Liz. We walked around a little more and then rode into the close-by town of Crawford, looking for that coffee. I did mention earlier no coffee? Check! Let's try the next town. About eighty miles down the road we come to Ardmore, which is just across the border into South Dakota. I slow down to the speed limit of 45 mph and look for some evidence of commerce, especially the kind pertaining to hospitality. No joy, but wait! Every house and every building in Ardmore stands abandoned! The whole town was devoid of human habitation or occupation. A real ghost town. Apparently there was not enough water to sustain the population, so they literally abandoned the place. No coffee, ergo, no point in stopping.
Down the road we go. Our bums are giving us grumpy messages by now. After a very long eventually, we get to Hot Springs South Dakota and find our way to the rather quaint main street. We had a reasonable lunch, but because we were by then rather warm by then, we opted for sodas instead of coffee!
Harley riders returning from Sturgis were much in evidence and while we get the odd salute from them while on the road, they tend to ignore us when the bikes are parked.
Thirty miles to Custer. Just before we leave the bakery, comes an SMS from John and Anne in Lusk WY saying that Custer was their plan for the night. As we would get there some hours before them we undertook to organise accommodation. On arriving in Custer we went down the main street. It had been cordoned off in the centre so bikes could be parked there. What a racket! Anyhow, we pull up in front of the Days Inn and I switch off, which is the signal for Liz to dismount. As she starts to swing her leg over she says "look at the blinds". I look at the blinds and respond "don't get off". I then called Best Western and here we are.
A short while ago, we heard a loud siren sounding. Liz received a severe storm warning on her cell phone. Minutes later it started raining and then hailing! We were fortunate to have the main storm pass us by, as the hail stones were the size of tennis balls. Again fortunately, John and Anne were some distance away filling up as the hail started and so were spared the possibility of injury. Canopies are good. Any readers from Ouray CO please note!
Tomorrow is Mount Rushmore and anything else that takes our fancy. We may well stay a second night.
Comments
charles 11/08/2013 17:00
And I thought that Americans were supposed to be good at the hospitality and service thing. Grand Canyon photos are awesome
A Monument to American Democracy
12/08/2013
2 Comments
12/08/2013
2 Comments
John and I compared notes today at Mt Rushmore. Yes, while riding along we sing to ourselves and we are both guilty of several renditions in the past couple of days of 'Rocky Raccoon'. For those uninitiated, he who so famously lived - and died '....somewhere in the Black Mountain Hills of Dakota'.
Back to more serious matters, we set off this morning to ride the Wildlife Loop Road in Custer State Park, hoping to see some bison on the way and aiming to strike Mt Rushmore after 11.00 am, as the midday sun provides the best light for photos. We enjoyed fantastic scenery, with granite massifs rising out of the green of the forests, interspersed with grassed meadows. And some lekker bends, although we pretty much respected the slow speed limit. Our first stop was caused by motorists stopped next the herd of wild donkeys. We had been told not to feed them, but some of the tourists had brought carrots!! We eased past and went looking for the bison.
Eventually we saw a herd grazing perhaps 500 yards of the road so we stopped and took photos. Even with the zoom they showed little of how impressive these beasts are. A car pulled up and said that a little further on there was another herd, right on the road. We proceeded without delay and were delighted to find the animals literally within touching distance. Great photo opportunity. I also reflected that it wasn't all that long ago that the American bison had been hunted almost to the point of extinction. Marvellous to see and know that they are now safe.
Back on the road again to Mt Rushmore, to join the thousands who visit every day to visit one of America's finest monuments to their experiment in democracy. They celebrate their history so well, given they are a comparatively young country.
This was one destination that Liz had been waiting for and neither she, nor I, nor John and Anne, were disappointed. As an amusing aside, entrance to the Monument is free. But parking is not. They have, basically in the middle of the bush, a multilevel car park.
The idea of large scale sculptures was to bring tourists to South Dakota and it was conceived in the early 1920's; and largely completed by the 1930's. The original idea was for people like Lewis and Clark, the famous explorers, Buffalo Bill Cody and some others to be hewn into the rock; but the sculptor, clearly a man of great insight, said the focus needed to be national and he came up with the four presidents we see today. The reasons for selecting Washington, Jefferson and Lincoln were well recognised, but it would seem that Theodore Roosevelt got the nod because he was the sculptor's mate, and had been for a long time!
Notwithstanding that element of controversy, the sculptures are a work of art. Make that Work of Art. They are beautiful. They capture and wonderfully convey the gravitas of each of those famous men; and also their humanity. And then there has to be remembered that these sculptures were blasted INTO existence by dynamite! Mind blowing!
One takes the short Presidential walk which passes close to the base of the mountain, giving a different and, in a way, more personal perspective; and this aspect of a visit to Mt Rushmore should not be missed.
On the way down there was an Indian display with a ranger answering questions. Another short history lesson which we found fascinating.
And so a twenty mile ride back to Custer, passing the Crazy Horse Memorial which is not visible from the road, and which is a work in progress which might take another two decades to complete.
Mount Rushmore is yet another highlight, of course quite different from the others, but it is, in my mind, one of the not-to-be-missed things to see when visiting the USA, appreciating it is off the beaten track. However, millions of people every year make the effort, and go away satisfied.
In that vein, we this afternoon reflected on how fortunate and privileged we have been to be able to visit, in a little over two weeks, admittedly briefly, so many of the world's greatest, most iconic attractions. This is, truly, the experience of a lifetime.
Comments
Pip13/08/2013 22:51
Hi Duncan
Pip from work here. You spoke about the bison, but we do not have a photo! Would love to see one
You sound like you're having a brilliant time. Keep up the wonderful posts
Pip
Reply
Duncan14/08/2013 05:02
Hi Pip
Thanks for following the blog. There is a pic of the bison on the People and Places tab. They are really impressive animals and absolutely woven into the fabric of American history, both Indian and early settler cultures and economies.
This is a fascinating trip
Duncan
Wall and the Badlands of South Dakota
13/08/2013
The story of Wall Drug is something of an American legend. This family owned a drug store in the small town of Wall SD and it was not doing well. There was a lot of passing traffic but they did not stop. There was no reason too, and no compelling attraction. One hot summer's day the owner decided to offer free iced water to any one who stopped and put up signs to advertise this. They have not looked back and today Wall Drug, now off the main interstate 90 is a destination in its own right. As for advertising, no one traveling on the I90 can possibly miss Wall Drug SD - there are billboards every where along the route for perhaps thirty miles!
Today was Tuesday and there were plenty of people visiting and we had to park the bikes at the fringe, but it was entirely manageable and we never felt crowded. It could well be different on weekends.
Although a tourist trap, it actually has considerable charm, and they still offer free ice water and 5c coffee refills. Free bumper stickers (you have a choice of three) and free, highly colourful, shopping bags. We enjoyed our short time there.
Wall is at one end of the SD240 Badlands Loop Road. This is well signposted and we were soon at the entrance to the Badlands National Park. (We are now officially ahead!) Almost immediately one is presented with the most stunning views of eroded landscapes. What is so interesting is that these eroded features lead down to green grasslands below. It reminded us a little of Bryce, but this is not Canyon Country. The stone is different, as are the colours and the geography.
The road has been thoughtfully routed for the tourist, displaying the area conveniently and to best advantage, with many well located turnouts and viewing areas. There is also a fair amount of wild life and we saw mountain goats, deer and prairie dogs.
We were approached by a number of other bikers and other folk who were interested in our travels and it was pleasant chatting to them.
The loop took us back to the I90 and against an easterly breeze we made steady progress until deciding to stop for the night in Murdo SD. After a swim in the pool, John and Anne visited the local car museum and were most impressed with the display.
Tomorrow there is nothing planned in terms of sightseeing, because if there is anything to see, we are unaware of it. So we may simply lay down rubber and get some miles behind us.
13/08/2013
The story of Wall Drug is something of an American legend. This family owned a drug store in the small town of Wall SD and it was not doing well. There was a lot of passing traffic but they did not stop. There was no reason too, and no compelling attraction. One hot summer's day the owner decided to offer free iced water to any one who stopped and put up signs to advertise this. They have not looked back and today Wall Drug, now off the main interstate 90 is a destination in its own right. As for advertising, no one traveling on the I90 can possibly miss Wall Drug SD - there are billboards every where along the route for perhaps thirty miles!
Today was Tuesday and there were plenty of people visiting and we had to park the bikes at the fringe, but it was entirely manageable and we never felt crowded. It could well be different on weekends.
Although a tourist trap, it actually has considerable charm, and they still offer free ice water and 5c coffee refills. Free bumper stickers (you have a choice of three) and free, highly colourful, shopping bags. We enjoyed our short time there.
Wall is at one end of the SD240 Badlands Loop Road. This is well signposted and we were soon at the entrance to the Badlands National Park. (We are now officially ahead!) Almost immediately one is presented with the most stunning views of eroded landscapes. What is so interesting is that these eroded features lead down to green grasslands below. It reminded us a little of Bryce, but this is not Canyon Country. The stone is different, as are the colours and the geography.
The road has been thoughtfully routed for the tourist, displaying the area conveniently and to best advantage, with many well located turnouts and viewing areas. There is also a fair amount of wild life and we saw mountain goats, deer and prairie dogs.
We were approached by a number of other bikers and other folk who were interested in our travels and it was pleasant chatting to them.
The loop took us back to the I90 and against an easterly breeze we made steady progress until deciding to stop for the night in Murdo SD. After a swim in the pool, John and Anne visited the local car museum and were most impressed with the display.
Tomorrow there is nothing planned in terms of sightseeing, because if there is anything to see, we are unaware of it. So we may simply lay down rubber and get some miles behind us.
Spot the Chardonnay.
14/08/2013
1 Comment
Today we basically did miles, although the rest breaks in Chamberlain and Mitchell SD were both pleasant; Chamberlain for the friendly chat with two ladies in the coffee shop and Mitchell for the quaint Corn Palace and the good coffee afterwards.
So today is the opportunity to recount some stories about our experiences of drinking laws in the USA.
Firstly, when having dinner on Orem Utah, we were asked for photo ID when we ordered wine for dinner. I laughed, because the legal age for drinking alcohol is twenty one. I told the waitress to multiply that by three and she would get to my age. She was apologetic, but adamant. No photo ID would mean no wine. No problem, I showed my drivers license and quarter flask of wine is ordered. It arrives with one glass and I ask for a second, so Liz can have some. Photo ID is requested, but Liz has left hers at the hotel. Tough. No grog for Liz! It is a silly law as I simply placed my glass between us and she helped herself as she felt like it.
On our first night in Cortez CO we walked over the road for dinner and asked for the wine list. The waitress was very proud to tell us that the wine by the glass was Australian. Yellowtail! Well, we were not in Cortez to drink Australian wine, and certainly not Yellowtail. We sampled instead a Chilean cabernet sauvignon and were quite pleased with the result.
Finally, in Kremmling CO we attended a local saloon for dinner. Liz ordered the Merlot, the only red offered; and as I do not enjoy that varietal I opted for the chardonnay. The waitress duly arrives and places two glasses of wine on the table. They are both red. I hesitate before saying that I had ordered the chardonnay. With total assurance the waitress pointed to my glass saying "That is the chardonnay. I was very careful to make sure I got it right". At that moment the manager walks past and obviously having heard the exchange tells the lass, without a break in his stride, "chardonnay is clear". Exit one glass of red to be replaced by a chardonnay. Seeing as the only red she offered at the outset was Merlot, I am still wondering what is was that she brought me, as it was said to be different!
Suffice it to say, small town America, as delightful as it is, is not the place to extend one's appreciation of wine. But the selection of beer - and good beer - is terrific. I have had a few glasses, unusual for me.
Chris Eckert
21/8/2013 06:26:03 amLiz ordered the Merlot, the only red offered; and ... "as I do not enjoy that varietal"
Now there is an understatement!
A great trip and enjoying the blog.
Blueberry Pie to Die For.
15/08/2013
4 Comments
One can be surprised by a good news story in the most unexpected places.
This morning over breakfast we planned the ride for the day. As the owner and operator of the GPS, I offered an itinerary based on what I considered appropriate breaks, the first being at Sherburn MN. After approximately ninety minutes on the I90E, we duly turned off to Sherburn and, ignoring the first offering close to the exit ramp, we followed the GPS to the centre of the village.
The main street was exceptionally wide and very quiet, but we did spot an establishment advertising itself as the "Cup N Saucer". It was open - pretty well all that was - and we were cheerfully greeted as we walked in.
A charming and switched on young lady was soon alongside explaining the specials, which to me sounded quite extraordinary for our location. As we had already eaten, we settled for drinks, but John and I then both decided that the blueberry pie just had to be sampled. Worth it, worth it! John was still rhapsodising over it at lunch time. Yep, it was really good.
The lass engaged us in conversation and as the conversation progressed we learned that she and her husband (the chef) had recently arrived in Sherburn from the Twin Cities to take over the restaurant. Now listen to this: the restaurant (recently refurbished) was the prize in an essay writing competition!! The young couple, Seth and Elizabeth, had dreamed for some while of having their own business and when they saw the competition had no hesitation in entering. They also had to be interviewed.
It bears mentioning that apart from writing a good essay, Seth has a degree in culinary arts and Elizabeth has an MBA, so they have got the kitchen and the front of house well covered.
Anyhow, they won and are now the proud proprietors and are, according to us and some locals we spoke to after (Moto Guzzi Norge and CanAm) really kicking goals. So should you happen to be within striking distance of Sherburn Minnesota and feeling remotely peckish or thirsty, the "Cup N Saucer" is highly recommended for good food and cheerful personal service.
Comments
Chris16/08/2013 04:22
Enjoying your blog Duncan, thanks for the blueberry pie tipoff. Next time I'm in whatever I will make a point of going to the cup n saucer.
I especially liked the photo of the four of you reflected in the shop window, worth front page!
You guys are away at a very opportune time. The election is DREADFUL. They are so intent on convergence that they are disappearing up each other's fundamentals. Best moment has been Abbot saying Rudd is not the "suppository" of all knowledge.
Reply
Elizabeth Lintelman
link16/08/2013 11:57
Duncan and Liz - It was such a pleasure to meet you. We're thankful you stopped in our cafe and took the time to mention us in your blog.
Safe travels!
Elizabeth & Seth Lintelman
Reply
Heinrich Voges19/08/2013 04:19
Elisabeth, schnell noch einmal ein Hinweis. Mein e-mail streikt immer noch. Vielleicht hat das Kirchenbuero in Frankemuth die einbaendige Litheran Encyclopedia zur Hand. Dort wird kurz ueber den Pastor Karl Roebbelen geschrieben. Schade das Mutti das nicht mehr erlebt. Aber immerhin Eure Polenreise.
Madume Vati
Reply
sarah puente22/08/2013 16:14
Thank you for writing this!!!! I am VERY proud of my sister and brother inlaw. What most people don't realize is that Elizabeth also works a full time job at a college in the Twin Cities commuting six times a week and has a one year old daughter all the while working at the cafe! So glad you were able to enjoy a treat there. Stop by for some avocado soup hmmmmmmm
15/08/2013
4 Comments
One can be surprised by a good news story in the most unexpected places.
This morning over breakfast we planned the ride for the day. As the owner and operator of the GPS, I offered an itinerary based on what I considered appropriate breaks, the first being at Sherburn MN. After approximately ninety minutes on the I90E, we duly turned off to Sherburn and, ignoring the first offering close to the exit ramp, we followed the GPS to the centre of the village.
The main street was exceptionally wide and very quiet, but we did spot an establishment advertising itself as the "Cup N Saucer". It was open - pretty well all that was - and we were cheerfully greeted as we walked in.
A charming and switched on young lady was soon alongside explaining the specials, which to me sounded quite extraordinary for our location. As we had already eaten, we settled for drinks, but John and I then both decided that the blueberry pie just had to be sampled. Worth it, worth it! John was still rhapsodising over it at lunch time. Yep, it was really good.
The lass engaged us in conversation and as the conversation progressed we learned that she and her husband (the chef) had recently arrived in Sherburn from the Twin Cities to take over the restaurant. Now listen to this: the restaurant (recently refurbished) was the prize in an essay writing competition!! The young couple, Seth and Elizabeth, had dreamed for some while of having their own business and when they saw the competition had no hesitation in entering. They also had to be interviewed.
It bears mentioning that apart from writing a good essay, Seth has a degree in culinary arts and Elizabeth has an MBA, so they have got the kitchen and the front of house well covered.
Anyhow, they won and are now the proud proprietors and are, according to us and some locals we spoke to after (Moto Guzzi Norge and CanAm) really kicking goals. So should you happen to be within striking distance of Sherburn Minnesota and feeling remotely peckish or thirsty, the "Cup N Saucer" is highly recommended for good food and cheerful personal service.
Comments
Chris16/08/2013 04:22
Enjoying your blog Duncan, thanks for the blueberry pie tipoff. Next time I'm in whatever I will make a point of going to the cup n saucer.
I especially liked the photo of the four of you reflected in the shop window, worth front page!
You guys are away at a very opportune time. The election is DREADFUL. They are so intent on convergence that they are disappearing up each other's fundamentals. Best moment has been Abbot saying Rudd is not the "suppository" of all knowledge.
Reply
Elizabeth Lintelman
link16/08/2013 11:57
Duncan and Liz - It was such a pleasure to meet you. We're thankful you stopped in our cafe and took the time to mention us in your blog.
Safe travels!
Elizabeth & Seth Lintelman
Reply
Heinrich Voges19/08/2013 04:19
Elisabeth, schnell noch einmal ein Hinweis. Mein e-mail streikt immer noch. Vielleicht hat das Kirchenbuero in Frankemuth die einbaendige Litheran Encyclopedia zur Hand. Dort wird kurz ueber den Pastor Karl Roebbelen geschrieben. Schade das Mutti das nicht mehr erlebt. Aber immerhin Eure Polenreise.
Madume Vati
Reply
sarah puente22/08/2013 16:14
Thank you for writing this!!!! I am VERY proud of my sister and brother inlaw. What most people don't realize is that Elizabeth also works a full time job at a college in the Twin Cities commuting six times a week and has a one year old daughter all the while working at the cafe! So glad you were able to enjoy a treat there. Stop by for some avocado soup hmmmmmmm
R & R Long Weekend Poynette Wisconsin
18/08/2013
1 Comment
We did not explore Decorah IA which is a pity, because on the ride through it did look attractive. We stayed out of town and were disinclined to make the trip back in. We walked to a local restaurant where we learned that chicken wings are white meat. News to me at my tender age and news to Liz who recognises red chicken meat blindfolded and with nose blocked at a distance of up to half a mile. Bottom line: I ordered the fish and scored a chicken wing as well.
Some miles past Austin MN we had parted company with John and Anne who went on to La Crosse. It was really great sharing a number of days with them from Cortez to Montrose CO and then in and from Custer SD.
On the way across Minnesota we were impressed by just how neat many of the towns and villages are. Preston was a stand out example.
Leaving Decorah and aiming for Prairie du Chien WI, I was thinking on something unrelated to navigating and I missed (again) a scheduled turn. Serendipity took advantage and we found ourselves passing the Effigy Mounds National Park. It is a very low key place entirely lacking the visual impact of the other places we have been; but once again the story and presentation were excellent and we learned about a different aspect of early American Indian culture. They may not have invented the wheel, but they sure did some other fascinating things!
While we were there we heard a ranger giving some advice to other travellers and we decided to amend our plans slightly and visit McGregor IA :-) instead of Prairie du Chien. On the way there we stopped briefly at Marquette IA to refuel. At that point we had done 312 miles/520 kms on the tank, and the reserve light was on. There was no 91 octane in Decorah and so the extended range of the fuel tank - one of the prime reasons I bought this bike - came in handy.
McGregor is again very pretty, but not as prosperous as it once was. And no, I am not related to the founder, Alexander. After coffee in Cafe McGregor (how could we patronise any other hostelry?) we took a walk down to the indeed Mighty Mississippi. In Australia - and South Africa - we do not have rivers. The Orange River is a creek and the Murray a stream by comparison. We saw a boat pushing a number of barges which would more than block the Murray at its widest. How important to commerce this river still is. I will check it out again when John H and I cross it next month in Louisiana. Some trivia. We are in the north and middle of the USA and at this point the Mississippi is about only 670 feet above sea level! Slow flowing, that Ol' Man River.
Back on the bike and in Marquette where we had to cross the river to Prairie du Chien, the Garmin lost its marbles. I felt like ripping it off its mount and consigning it to a muddy, murky, watery grave. Sapience was brought to bear on our situation and once on the bridge the Garmin recovered and took us without incident to Muscoda WI where we had a really good soup and salad bar for lunch. We were then on the downhill run to Poynette WI where we were to spend a long weekend with Liz's family; and where her daughter was also visiting.
Awaiting our arrival was a replacement motorcycle mount from Garmin, to replace the one on the bike which has the defective mini USB plug to receive the XM satellite antenna connection. Andre dug out some tools for me and on Saturday afternoon in the pleasant late summer Wisconsin sun I disconnected the faulty mount (I needed to remove the windscreen) and installed the new one. Soldered the power wires into place, put everything back, cable tied the cables neatly out of sight and called Sirius XM to send the activation signal. Spoke to the computer and a few seconds later I had Navweather and Navtraffic. I am also supposed to have Sirius XM satellite radio, but that is very secondary. I will try it later. It is the weather feature we need.
We have spent a very pleasant couple of days here with Andre and Lee. Their children Brian and Natalie and their spouses Liz and Galen and their respective children all came over for the weekend and of course Tarryn is here as well. There is much jollity and a little zaniness, but that runs in the family. I was warned. There was some dancing around the bonfire last night.
Andre and Lee have a small spread here and they have a flock of chickens, a flock of guinea fowl, an extensive vegetable garden and acres of lawn and a boundary of virgin bush. I know it is a lot of hard work for André and Lee, but sitting outside in this glorious weather we have been able to enjoy two and a half days of rural relaxation, which has allowed us to rest and rejuvenate. Thank you so much for your welcome and superb hospitality! It has been great to see you again and for me to meet two of your children and your grand children. At least I got to meet Robert on Skype. And the dogs, rather magnificent animals. And Chester the cat. He is a rather superior feline, that one!
It is our last day in Poynette and in the morning we head for Milwaukee (we really don't have time to visit the Harley-Davidson Museum) and our ferry ride across Lake Michigan, which will ease us into next week's riding.
Comments
Heinrich Voges18/08/2013 20:01
It is fantastic fo follow you on your trip through "THE STATES".
I am wishing you all the best for the remaining week. Looking forward to hear about Frankenmuth.
Next time I,m accompany you!!!
Vati
18/08/2013
1 Comment
We did not explore Decorah IA which is a pity, because on the ride through it did look attractive. We stayed out of town and were disinclined to make the trip back in. We walked to a local restaurant where we learned that chicken wings are white meat. News to me at my tender age and news to Liz who recognises red chicken meat blindfolded and with nose blocked at a distance of up to half a mile. Bottom line: I ordered the fish and scored a chicken wing as well.
Some miles past Austin MN we had parted company with John and Anne who went on to La Crosse. It was really great sharing a number of days with them from Cortez to Montrose CO and then in and from Custer SD.
On the way across Minnesota we were impressed by just how neat many of the towns and villages are. Preston was a stand out example.
Leaving Decorah and aiming for Prairie du Chien WI, I was thinking on something unrelated to navigating and I missed (again) a scheduled turn. Serendipity took advantage and we found ourselves passing the Effigy Mounds National Park. It is a very low key place entirely lacking the visual impact of the other places we have been; but once again the story and presentation were excellent and we learned about a different aspect of early American Indian culture. They may not have invented the wheel, but they sure did some other fascinating things!
While we were there we heard a ranger giving some advice to other travellers and we decided to amend our plans slightly and visit McGregor IA :-) instead of Prairie du Chien. On the way there we stopped briefly at Marquette IA to refuel. At that point we had done 312 miles/520 kms on the tank, and the reserve light was on. There was no 91 octane in Decorah and so the extended range of the fuel tank - one of the prime reasons I bought this bike - came in handy.
McGregor is again very pretty, but not as prosperous as it once was. And no, I am not related to the founder, Alexander. After coffee in Cafe McGregor (how could we patronise any other hostelry?) we took a walk down to the indeed Mighty Mississippi. In Australia - and South Africa - we do not have rivers. The Orange River is a creek and the Murray a stream by comparison. We saw a boat pushing a number of barges which would more than block the Murray at its widest. How important to commerce this river still is. I will check it out again when John H and I cross it next month in Louisiana. Some trivia. We are in the north and middle of the USA and at this point the Mississippi is about only 670 feet above sea level! Slow flowing, that Ol' Man River.
Back on the bike and in Marquette where we had to cross the river to Prairie du Chien, the Garmin lost its marbles. I felt like ripping it off its mount and consigning it to a muddy, murky, watery grave. Sapience was brought to bear on our situation and once on the bridge the Garmin recovered and took us without incident to Muscoda WI where we had a really good soup and salad bar for lunch. We were then on the downhill run to Poynette WI where we were to spend a long weekend with Liz's family; and where her daughter was also visiting.
Awaiting our arrival was a replacement motorcycle mount from Garmin, to replace the one on the bike which has the defective mini USB plug to receive the XM satellite antenna connection. Andre dug out some tools for me and on Saturday afternoon in the pleasant late summer Wisconsin sun I disconnected the faulty mount (I needed to remove the windscreen) and installed the new one. Soldered the power wires into place, put everything back, cable tied the cables neatly out of sight and called Sirius XM to send the activation signal. Spoke to the computer and a few seconds later I had Navweather and Navtraffic. I am also supposed to have Sirius XM satellite radio, but that is very secondary. I will try it later. It is the weather feature we need.
We have spent a very pleasant couple of days here with Andre and Lee. Their children Brian and Natalie and their spouses Liz and Galen and their respective children all came over for the weekend and of course Tarryn is here as well. There is much jollity and a little zaniness, but that runs in the family. I was warned. There was some dancing around the bonfire last night.
Andre and Lee have a small spread here and they have a flock of chickens, a flock of guinea fowl, an extensive vegetable garden and acres of lawn and a boundary of virgin bush. I know it is a lot of hard work for André and Lee, but sitting outside in this glorious weather we have been able to enjoy two and a half days of rural relaxation, which has allowed us to rest and rejuvenate. Thank you so much for your welcome and superb hospitality! It has been great to see you again and for me to meet two of your children and your grand children. At least I got to meet Robert on Skype. And the dogs, rather magnificent animals. And Chester the cat. He is a rather superior feline, that one!
It is our last day in Poynette and in the morning we head for Milwaukee (we really don't have time to visit the Harley-Davidson Museum) and our ferry ride across Lake Michigan, which will ease us into next week's riding.
Comments
Heinrich Voges18/08/2013 20:01
It is fantastic fo follow you on your trip through "THE STATES".
I am wishing you all the best for the remaining week. Looking forward to hear about Frankenmuth.
Next time I,m accompany you!!!
Vati
21/8/2013
Across Lake Michigan to Owosso MI
After a very pleasant long weekend with the Fourie's in Poynette, we left on Monday morning for our trip on the ferry across Lake Michigan. However, a couple of errands needed running. Firstly, Tarryn, who had gone to stay with Brian and Liz, had left her wallet; so we arranged to have breakfast with them in Waukesha. Done!
Secondly, the rear tyre on the bike had worn faster than I had planned, so a quick call to BMW Motorcycles of Milwaukee confirmed they had stock and could fit immediately. That meant no opportunity to have a look at Milwaukee but the next opportunity to change was uncertain and safety comes first. Done!
Onto the ferry, tied the bike down and we're off! In the queue Joe from Grand Rapids MI came up and we had a long and interesting chat. He has a Road King. He suggested avoiding the interstate and Lansing and so we spent the night in Owosso MI. A charming rural community which seems quite prosperous. The Cornstock Inn delivered a high quality accommodation experience.
Although far more attractive than the interstate, the country side, pretty as it was, is standard to us now, and with the roads straight and flat, we are simply laying down miles between destinations. But it is tips from folk like Joe that make the trip more pleasant and interesting.
On a technical note, these long distances in top gear mean quite good fuel economy. I am averaging over 600 kms per tank.
A Pilgrimage - Frankenmuth Mi
21/08/2013
1 Comment
Many of Liz's friends will know that she comes from a long line of German Lutheran pastors on both the paternal and maternal sides. But many would not know that her maternal great-great grandfather was a pioneering pastor and was the minister at St Lorenz Evangelical Lutheran Church in Frankenmuth MI from 1851 to 1857. When Liz's Dad, himself a missionary (now retired) heard we were crossing Michigan, he mentioned this connection and suggested we make a visit. Liz made contact and the minister very kindly made arrangements for us to be shown the church and the museum. Once again, there was a strong American Indian connection, with a very close bond forged between the Lutheran settlers and the Chippewa tribe.
Frankenmuth is a little Bavaria, with a picturesque main street and attractive suburbs. It is exceedingly German and the residents are very proud of their heritage. It also boasts Bronners, the largest Christmas store in the world. It is indeed huge.
The church still plays a key role in the affairs of the town and it is a beautiful place of worship.
What struck us is that the folk are so interested in their history. When we mentioned to Dan Haubenstricker that Liz was related to Pastor Karl Röbbelen, he knew exactly who he was and immediately said that he was the only former minister of the church of whom they had no photo, and of whom they knew the least. They are very keen to know more. It is clear to us that it is only the Röbbelen family who can fill the gaps. Hopefully this can be done. We are grateful to our guide, Marion, and to Dan, for their time and interest.
After visiting Bronners (wow!) we once again turned east, aiming for the Canadian border at Port Huron. The crossing was quick and we were soon on our way to London Ontario, where we were scheduled to have dinner with Gary Röbbelen and his wife Laurie. Over a very tasty Mexican meal and a glass of Shiraz, the history of both branches of the Röbbelen family were explored and plans discussed on how to determine the connection. Three of their four children were also introduced to us and the evening was very pleasant and too short. Hopefully they can visit Australia sometime, but we also hope to return in the future.
That was a big day, especially for Liz.
Comments
charles reeler 22/08/2013 01:11 Wow! Amazing that you have rellies in far away places Liz! Still envious........
21/08/2013
1 Comment
Many of Liz's friends will know that she comes from a long line of German Lutheran pastors on both the paternal and maternal sides. But many would not know that her maternal great-great grandfather was a pioneering pastor and was the minister at St Lorenz Evangelical Lutheran Church in Frankenmuth MI from 1851 to 1857. When Liz's Dad, himself a missionary (now retired) heard we were crossing Michigan, he mentioned this connection and suggested we make a visit. Liz made contact and the minister very kindly made arrangements for us to be shown the church and the museum. Once again, there was a strong American Indian connection, with a very close bond forged between the Lutheran settlers and the Chippewa tribe.
Frankenmuth is a little Bavaria, with a picturesque main street and attractive suburbs. It is exceedingly German and the residents are very proud of their heritage. It also boasts Bronners, the largest Christmas store in the world. It is indeed huge.
The church still plays a key role in the affairs of the town and it is a beautiful place of worship.
What struck us is that the folk are so interested in their history. When we mentioned to Dan Haubenstricker that Liz was related to Pastor Karl Röbbelen, he knew exactly who he was and immediately said that he was the only former minister of the church of whom they had no photo, and of whom they knew the least. They are very keen to know more. It is clear to us that it is only the Röbbelen family who can fill the gaps. Hopefully this can be done. We are grateful to our guide, Marion, and to Dan, for their time and interest.
After visiting Bronners (wow!) we once again turned east, aiming for the Canadian border at Port Huron. The crossing was quick and we were soon on our way to London Ontario, where we were scheduled to have dinner with Gary Röbbelen and his wife Laurie. Over a very tasty Mexican meal and a glass of Shiraz, the history of both branches of the Röbbelen family were explored and plans discussed on how to determine the connection. Three of their four children were also introduced to us and the evening was very pleasant and too short. Hopefully they can visit Australia sometime, but we also hope to return in the future.
That was a big day, especially for Liz.
Comments
charles reeler 22/08/2013 01:11 Wow! Amazing that you have rellies in far away places Liz! Still envious........
Old Friends; and Canadian Drivers
23/08/2013
0 Comments
Leaving Gary and Lawrie we had a bit of a mishap with Liz's helmet and decided to replace it if we could. That caused us to ride to Mississauga, but when at the motorcycle shop we decided to wait until we are back in Melbourne. The idea of buying a helmet in Canada was a bit naughty because the helmet would not pass inspection by Mr Plod in Australia.
As Mississauga is close to Toronto, we decided to visit the city centre and have lunch. We had been told by Gary that the Greater Toronto Area had overtaken Chicago as the third largest conurbation in North America. Well, their freeway system is extensive and frightening, exacerbated by the erratic and inconsiderate driving of the Canadians. They drive slowly in the fast lane and vice versa, change lanes without indicating and generally behave as if they were entitled to the road, not too dissimilar to Australians, but certainly in a class of their own. Little did I know then that it was good training for New York. While waiting at a traffic light, two chaps in suits walked past, with one remarking to us "You are a long way from home."
Our lunch was a pleasant affair at E11even, diagonally over the road from PwC and with a menu that matched that socio-demographic. Dressed in our biker gear we did not look like the rest of the clientele and the front desk attendants looked at us with great uncertainty. I quickly assured them that, actually, we were both professionals. They ushered us to an out of the way table and asked us if they could take our jackets, which were quickly taken to a cupboard! We were served by a dynamic and delightful young lady, Michelle, who is training to become a sommelier. We got into a lively conversation about wine and rather distracted her from her other duties! The bill was presented in a black envelope on which was printed the legend "The Damage". You are correct, dear reader. It was not cheap.
Time to get on our way to Mono, a rural community perhaps a bit more than an hour north of Toronto. I say perhaps because it took us a lot longer than that. The Garmin was out of its depth and I was as stressed as I was angry at the poor performance of an expensive GPS.
We were going there to see my oldest and very dear friends, Tim and Cathy. I met Cathy in my early teens and Tim in my mid teens. I introduced them and after forty something years they are still together and we are still friends. Cathy's sister Glynnis also said hello and their daughter Dominique was also in residence with her husband Brendan. We see each other very infrequently because of distance but we keep in touch. True lifetime friends.
After a great time with Tim and Cathy, far too short, we zipped down the highway to Niagara Falls, which we made in two hours. I had been there before but still found them to be a magnificent spectacle, as did Liz. As we had decided to put in a good distance that day, we were soon on our way across the border and on the Interstate. We were making good time until someone had an accident and they closed the road. We immediately shot over to the byways, far more scenic, far less stressful; but slower!
Lunch was needed and I used the GPS (brave!) to identify a place for lunch, and we landed up in yet another pretty town, Caledonia NY. After lunch as we were getting set to resume the ride, the heavens opened! We ducked into a doorway and watched for a while and when it eased, took off - straight into the downpour! Eventually we rode out of it, but in my rear view mirror I could see the blackness chasing us. After a while we needed another break and the GPS took us to Trumansburg NY. I commented to Liz that we should not dally. Oops. As we were finishing our coffee, the heavens opened once more. We watched from the coffee shop and the moment it eased, we took off again - once more into heavy rain!
By now we were drenched and even my boots were wet. Passing through Ithaca NY at about 5.30 pm we got stuck in the rush hour traffic while the rain simply pelted down. In frustration I turned off on a side street and just rode until the GPS plotted a new route which, fortunately, was not busy. As we cleared the suburbs travelling south and east, we once again rode out of the rain. But once more, that was not for long. This time the rain was of of Biblical magnitude! Large, pelting drops of rain but now accompanied by some decent lightning bolts. I ducked, and felt silly for doing so, but with no shelter in sight it was all I could do.
We eventually landed up in Scranton PA, damp and tired after nearly twelve hours on the road, covering 411 miles, setting ourselves up for a two hour ride into New York City the next day. We ordered Domino's pizza in our room and went to bed!
And so New York! 24/08/2013
2 Comments
When Liz said she would come on the ride with me, she would often say how anxious she was about the whole idea. But she also said that when she got off the bike in New York City she knew she would have a great sense of achievement and have enjoyed it immensely.
Yesterday morning after a short two hour ride from Scranton PA we passed through the Lincoln Tunnel and into a traffic jam on W 43rd Street! Those last few miles to the hotel were very stressful. The guys drive worse than the Canadians and the bike started to overheat! Was I stressed? Check!
After successfully avoiding the several attempts of unidentified New Yorkers trying to kill us; and relying on my arithmetic skills rather than a sadly confused Garmin to navigate (sequentially numbered streets are very useful) we pulled onto the footpath outside the hotel. I do believe Liz floated off her pillion and held her arms above her head exclaiming 'I did it!' Some 5,400 miles / 8,500 kilometers in twenty seven days, of which twenty two were riding days. The amazing sights, great beauty, immense landscapes, mighty rivers, high mountains and their clear, sparkling streams. I know why they call Montana the 'Big Sky State'. The interesting and friendly people we met; and catching up with friends and family. An adventure indeed and what a privilege to be able to do it.
But we were in New York. Unusually, the Big Apple was not the reason for our trip, as it is for millions who visit every year. It was an end point for Liz and an intermediate one for me, thus the duration of our visit was just the one day and one night. We will, DV, return one day and spend a bit more time in some of the great cities.
On this occasion we walked downtown to Macy's, received our discount cards and did some shopping. A slow walk back up town and I ducked into the ANZ office on Park Avenue to greet some of my colleagues. Good to see them again.
Back at the hotel I grabbed Liz's bike gear and repaired to the Post Office to send it to Portland to await my return.
After a short rest we climbed on the subway at Lexington and 51st and got off at Spring Street where we had a most pleasant dinner at Balthazar's with my nephew Alex (he works for Macquarie in NYC), his wife Jackie and some of their friends.
This morning Liz left for the airport and a week in South Africa to see her dad and I leave for Pennsylvania to see some friends and visit the great battlefield of Gettysburg.
To those who are following, thanks for your interest. The comments are much appreciated, and a good many folk are commenting to us via Facebook, also much appreciated.
OK. Gotta pack!
Comments
Heinrich Voges link 24/08/2013 11:39 Hi, Duncan. Yes, you did it - amazing!!! And you fell only once !!!
I can imagine how grateful you are. Reading your 'reports' and looking at all the pictures I began to envy you. I hope that's not too unchristian.
I am wishing you all the best for your ride back to Portland.
Now I am looking forward to meet Elizabeth tomorrow.
Love, take care.
Heinrich
Reply
charles reeler 26/08/2013 19:27 Well done guys! What an achievement and adventure. Looking forward one day to catch up and hear the stories first hand. Dancan, take care on your trip back. Liz, take care in the Old Country!
2 Comments
When Liz said she would come on the ride with me, she would often say how anxious she was about the whole idea. But she also said that when she got off the bike in New York City she knew she would have a great sense of achievement and have enjoyed it immensely.
Yesterday morning after a short two hour ride from Scranton PA we passed through the Lincoln Tunnel and into a traffic jam on W 43rd Street! Those last few miles to the hotel were very stressful. The guys drive worse than the Canadians and the bike started to overheat! Was I stressed? Check!
After successfully avoiding the several attempts of unidentified New Yorkers trying to kill us; and relying on my arithmetic skills rather than a sadly confused Garmin to navigate (sequentially numbered streets are very useful) we pulled onto the footpath outside the hotel. I do believe Liz floated off her pillion and held her arms above her head exclaiming 'I did it!' Some 5,400 miles / 8,500 kilometers in twenty seven days, of which twenty two were riding days. The amazing sights, great beauty, immense landscapes, mighty rivers, high mountains and their clear, sparkling streams. I know why they call Montana the 'Big Sky State'. The interesting and friendly people we met; and catching up with friends and family. An adventure indeed and what a privilege to be able to do it.
But we were in New York. Unusually, the Big Apple was not the reason for our trip, as it is for millions who visit every year. It was an end point for Liz and an intermediate one for me, thus the duration of our visit was just the one day and one night. We will, DV, return one day and spend a bit more time in some of the great cities.
On this occasion we walked downtown to Macy's, received our discount cards and did some shopping. A slow walk back up town and I ducked into the ANZ office on Park Avenue to greet some of my colleagues. Good to see them again.
Back at the hotel I grabbed Liz's bike gear and repaired to the Post Office to send it to Portland to await my return.
After a short rest we climbed on the subway at Lexington and 51st and got off at Spring Street where we had a most pleasant dinner at Balthazar's with my nephew Alex (he works for Macquarie in NYC), his wife Jackie and some of their friends.
This morning Liz left for the airport and a week in South Africa to see her dad and I leave for Pennsylvania to see some friends and visit the great battlefield of Gettysburg.
To those who are following, thanks for your interest. The comments are much appreciated, and a good many folk are commenting to us via Facebook, also much appreciated.
OK. Gotta pack!
Comments
Heinrich Voges link 24/08/2013 11:39 Hi, Duncan. Yes, you did it - amazing!!! And you fell only once !!!
I can imagine how grateful you are. Reading your 'reports' and looking at all the pictures I began to envy you. I hope that's not too unchristian.
I am wishing you all the best for your ride back to Portland.
Now I am looking forward to meet Elizabeth tomorrow.
Love, take care.
Heinrich
Reply
charles reeler 26/08/2013 19:27 Well done guys! What an achievement and adventure. Looking forward one day to catch up and hear the stories first hand. Dancan, take care on your trip back. Liz, take care in the Old Country!
Gettysburg: Another Dream Fulfilled; and Introducing Couch Surfing. 26/08/2013
0 Comments
Liz departed for the airport and her week in South Africa. It was very lonely back in the hotel room and the subsequent loading of the bike on my own-some just highlighted how efficiently we had worked as a team on the ride.
The ride out of Manhattan and into the Lincoln Tunnel was slow but steady, but I was then surprised and put-out to be warned of a traffic delay on the New Jersey Turnpike. I dropped off, incurring a toll charge of 35 cents (I laughed) only to run smack-bang into another queue. I hit the 'avoid' button on the GPS and it actually worked rather well. At this stage I should record that my destination was Jamison PA, where I would be meeting an old friend, Amie, and her husband Frank.
I am making steady progress through the rather drab urban landscape and begin to enjoy the ride a bit more as this starts to look more like suburbia. Until I run into another traffic queue near New Brunswick. Time to stop for lunch, a tactic that was reasonable given the time of day, because when I returned to the road it was flowing better.
A word about New Jersey drivers. Some are desperately incompetent.
It was good to get to Frank and Amie. We just sat down and talked and then, as they were off to church, I was happy to go along. Rather interesting. Afterwards, Amie drove us around the area, focusing on Doylestown. It is a very pleasant town and it has the really fascinating Mercer Museum. I Iamented the fact that I did not have my camera with me.
A simple dinner with Fiano to drink and we chatted and played music until late. Such an easy friendship, it is lovely. Another chat over breakfast and it is too soon time to hit the road. Thank you, Amie, for your hospitality. Great to finally meet you after so many years.
In the early 2000's I had driven through Gettysburg and had been greatly impressed with my impression of how that battlefield had been marked out and maintained. That planted within me the desire to return and look at it more closely. This I was about to do.
I had recently heard on the ADVrider site about couch surfing. I had signed up and put out a request for a couch in Gettysburg and received an acceptance. So I had arranged to meet my host Nathan and his wife Gleice (she is Brazilian) .... at church! This I duly did. They were a very welcoming group and I felt right at home with some solid Reformed preaching. I met Nathan's mum and dad and (I think) all of his eight siblings! It is their habit to hang around Church afterwards and this we did until 10.30 pm.
Nathan has an interest in wine, guns, reptiles, theology etc etc, a man after my own heart. We covered a lot of ground in the short time we were together and I really appreciated their hospitality and our time together, even caging his ducks when we got home at about 11.00 am!.
On to Gettysburg National Battlefield Visitor Centre. I arrived shortly after 8 am so beat the eventual crowd. That meant I was able to get a really good position in the Cyclorama show as well as have an unhurried look at the exhibits. Once again, a fabulous presentation of American history.
After that I toured the battlefield and cemetery. In relation to the former, it is clear who won, made plainer I imagine by the fact that Pennsylvania was a Union state. I think that there are now too many monuments and it is rather cluttered on the Union side.
The Confederate side has fewer memorials and they are smaller as well, creating, at least for me, a simpler and more dignified atmosphere. To give one example, the statue of Union General Meade is perhaps twice life size, on his horse, in the open and very prominent. I found that of Confederate General Robert E Lee on the side of the road in the woods, life size, no horse and just two roadside parking bays instead of space for coaches.
Gettysburg is seared into the American soul. Although a Union victory, it was American killing American and the South lost not only wealth, but the flower of its youth. Some might venture that 150 years later, recovery is not yet complete. And of course Gettysburg is internationally renowned because of Abraham Lincoln's immortal address. I visited the cemetery where he delivered it and tried to imagine how it would have been all those years ago.
I am no historian, but I wonder why it was thought necessary to fight. Economic sanctions would have worked, surely.
I could easily return to Gettysburg. If I do, I will take a personal guided tour. It is a sad place, but the lessons of history are if you don't know it, you are doomed to repeat it.
Inspired by Gettysburg, I decided to visit Antietam. I will post that tomorrow morning.
0 Comments
Liz departed for the airport and her week in South Africa. It was very lonely back in the hotel room and the subsequent loading of the bike on my own-some just highlighted how efficiently we had worked as a team on the ride.
The ride out of Manhattan and into the Lincoln Tunnel was slow but steady, but I was then surprised and put-out to be warned of a traffic delay on the New Jersey Turnpike. I dropped off, incurring a toll charge of 35 cents (I laughed) only to run smack-bang into another queue. I hit the 'avoid' button on the GPS and it actually worked rather well. At this stage I should record that my destination was Jamison PA, where I would be meeting an old friend, Amie, and her husband Frank.
I am making steady progress through the rather drab urban landscape and begin to enjoy the ride a bit more as this starts to look more like suburbia. Until I run into another traffic queue near New Brunswick. Time to stop for lunch, a tactic that was reasonable given the time of day, because when I returned to the road it was flowing better.
A word about New Jersey drivers. Some are desperately incompetent.
It was good to get to Frank and Amie. We just sat down and talked and then, as they were off to church, I was happy to go along. Rather interesting. Afterwards, Amie drove us around the area, focusing on Doylestown. It is a very pleasant town and it has the really fascinating Mercer Museum. I Iamented the fact that I did not have my camera with me.
A simple dinner with Fiano to drink and we chatted and played music until late. Such an easy friendship, it is lovely. Another chat over breakfast and it is too soon time to hit the road. Thank you, Amie, for your hospitality. Great to finally meet you after so many years.
In the early 2000's I had driven through Gettysburg and had been greatly impressed with my impression of how that battlefield had been marked out and maintained. That planted within me the desire to return and look at it more closely. This I was about to do.
I had recently heard on the ADVrider site about couch surfing. I had signed up and put out a request for a couch in Gettysburg and received an acceptance. So I had arranged to meet my host Nathan and his wife Gleice (she is Brazilian) .... at church! This I duly did. They were a very welcoming group and I felt right at home with some solid Reformed preaching. I met Nathan's mum and dad and (I think) all of his eight siblings! It is their habit to hang around Church afterwards and this we did until 10.30 pm.
Nathan has an interest in wine, guns, reptiles, theology etc etc, a man after my own heart. We covered a lot of ground in the short time we were together and I really appreciated their hospitality and our time together, even caging his ducks when we got home at about 11.00 am!.
On to Gettysburg National Battlefield Visitor Centre. I arrived shortly after 8 am so beat the eventual crowd. That meant I was able to get a really good position in the Cyclorama show as well as have an unhurried look at the exhibits. Once again, a fabulous presentation of American history.
After that I toured the battlefield and cemetery. In relation to the former, it is clear who won, made plainer I imagine by the fact that Pennsylvania was a Union state. I think that there are now too many monuments and it is rather cluttered on the Union side.
The Confederate side has fewer memorials and they are smaller as well, creating, at least for me, a simpler and more dignified atmosphere. To give one example, the statue of Union General Meade is perhaps twice life size, on his horse, in the open and very prominent. I found that of Confederate General Robert E Lee on the side of the road in the woods, life size, no horse and just two roadside parking bays instead of space for coaches.
Gettysburg is seared into the American soul. Although a Union victory, it was American killing American and the South lost not only wealth, but the flower of its youth. Some might venture that 150 years later, recovery is not yet complete. And of course Gettysburg is internationally renowned because of Abraham Lincoln's immortal address. I visited the cemetery where he delivered it and tried to imagine how it would have been all those years ago.
I am no historian, but I wonder why it was thought necessary to fight. Economic sanctions would have worked, surely.
I could easily return to Gettysburg. If I do, I will take a personal guided tour. It is a sad place, but the lessons of history are if you don't know it, you are doomed to repeat it.
Inspired by Gettysburg, I decided to visit Antietam. I will post that tomorrow morning.
Getting Into the War 27/08/2013
0 Comments
As some readers may know I have a mild interest in American history and politics. When I concluded it was time to leave Gettysburg and continue southwards, I looked at my map and saw that Antietam was, well, kind of South; and Gettysburg had tweaked my interest. One thing I wanted to observe was if there was a change in emphasis and attitude to the individual battles and the war generally as I progressed from the Union states to the Confederate. At Gettysburg, as previously noted, the Union side is preeminent, the Confederacy dismissed except for the fact that they were beaten.
Antietam was and may still be, the bloodiest day in all of American history. Nearly 23,000 casualties. In the early part of the battle, lives were being lost at the rate of one a second. The fighting raged all day and neither side could claim a victory, but the lecturer at the visitor centre seemed to lay more emphasis on the fact that Robert E Lee withdrew. But as he did, the Union General McLellan did not pursue him. Indeed, Lee continued to skirmish with the Union forces and returned less than a year later. That is hardly a great victory or even a victory at all, but it was used as the prop for the Emancipation Proclamation.
A guide at the Visitor Centre told me that the victorious side wrote the histories and therefore got to name the battles. The North would name for a geological feature, the South for the nearest town. The North considered this battle theirs and called it after Antietam Creek. The South are not up for this and they call it the Battle of Sharpsburg. (The North clearly won at Gettysburg, so why is it not the Battle of Little Round Top, or Cemetery Hill?)
Around Gettysburg and Antietam I was engaged by quite a number of people who were interested in my travels. I can't remember all their names. Some ride themselves, or used to, others noticed the stickers on the panniers. At Gettysburg, Russ from Clinton Mississippi and his friend prayed a blessing on me and the bike. 'Lord, keep the rubber down and the other side up!' That works for me! I appreciated that very much. At Antietam/Sharpsburg I had a long chat with Brent E and his wife from New Jersey. He is a Vietnam veteran and we have very similar principles.
Just reflecting back for a moment, rural Pennsylvania is very picturesque and I enjoyed the many pretty views. It was the second state to form the Union and has a long history so closely linked to the American experiment in democracy. German migration was very strong and there was also Huguenot migration - French Calvinists fleeing persecution by the Catholic church. I should have taken more photos.
0 Comments
As some readers may know I have a mild interest in American history and politics. When I concluded it was time to leave Gettysburg and continue southwards, I looked at my map and saw that Antietam was, well, kind of South; and Gettysburg had tweaked my interest. One thing I wanted to observe was if there was a change in emphasis and attitude to the individual battles and the war generally as I progressed from the Union states to the Confederate. At Gettysburg, as previously noted, the Union side is preeminent, the Confederacy dismissed except for the fact that they were beaten.
Antietam was and may still be, the bloodiest day in all of American history. Nearly 23,000 casualties. In the early part of the battle, lives were being lost at the rate of one a second. The fighting raged all day and neither side could claim a victory, but the lecturer at the visitor centre seemed to lay more emphasis on the fact that Robert E Lee withdrew. But as he did, the Union General McLellan did not pursue him. Indeed, Lee continued to skirmish with the Union forces and returned less than a year later. That is hardly a great victory or even a victory at all, but it was used as the prop for the Emancipation Proclamation.
A guide at the Visitor Centre told me that the victorious side wrote the histories and therefore got to name the battles. The North would name for a geological feature, the South for the nearest town. The North considered this battle theirs and called it after Antietam Creek. The South are not up for this and they call it the Battle of Sharpsburg. (The North clearly won at Gettysburg, so why is it not the Battle of Little Round Top, or Cemetery Hill?)
Around Gettysburg and Antietam I was engaged by quite a number of people who were interested in my travels. I can't remember all their names. Some ride themselves, or used to, others noticed the stickers on the panniers. At Gettysburg, Russ from Clinton Mississippi and his friend prayed a blessing on me and the bike. 'Lord, keep the rubber down and the other side up!' That works for me! I appreciated that very much. At Antietam/Sharpsburg I had a long chat with Brent E and his wife from New Jersey. He is a Vietnam veteran and we have very similar principles.
Just reflecting back for a moment, rural Pennsylvania is very picturesque and I enjoyed the many pretty views. It was the second state to form the Union and has a long history so closely linked to the American experiment in democracy. German migration was very strong and there was also Huguenot migration - French Calvinists fleeing persecution by the Catholic church. I should have taken more photos.
Harpers Ferry West Virginia
27/08/2013
1 Comment
Having spent the night in Charles Town WV with the objective of a short ride to Harpers Ferry the next day, I had an easy morning updating the blog and getting some washing dry. Air conditioning is a wonderful invention; and is even more to be appreciated on a muggy day such as yesterday was.
At the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park (Annual Pass is now more than paid for, Antietam was also 'free') the rangers at the entrance were obviously having a slow day. They were very keen to chat about my trip and could not have been more welcoming and helpful. I think I must be south of Mason Dixie.
When I went into the Visitor Centre I was surprised at the lack of emphasis on the War. In response to my questions, I was passed over to a young gentleman who perhaps had been waiting all morning for someone like me. Out came the map and I was treated to a really enthusiastic and knowledgeable description of the events of September 1862. Names of commanders, anecdotes, military appreciation, the whole box and dice. I was riveted, as were a few others who were standing around. Really Excellent.
A la Bryce Canyon, there was a shuttle bus, but with just the one stop in the lower old town. Harpers Ferry is fully open to the public and their vehicles, but in peak season you will not get parking. Take the shuttle bus.
The town is, or was, strategically important and during the war it changed hands several times. Located on the banks of the Potomac River, it has a wonderfully scenic location, nestled below the Maryland Heights. In its hey day, it was also an important industrial town, deriving power from the river to drive machinery, but in 1935 one more devastating flood saw the end of that era. It is today a commuter community (and popular tourist destination) for Washington DC and surrounding towns. I spent half an hour at the station waiting for Tom vdB and was entertained by two trains that passed through, as well as taking some additional photos of the very pretty town.
Talking of the town, I dropped into a shop - the name escapes me - looking for my Harpers Ferry sticker, and spoke to the owner Cindy and her assistant Crystal. Friendly, helpful and charming; as were all the folk I met at Harpers Ferry. I also really appreciated the air conditioning. It was really humid yesterday!
Harpers Ferry is also very important in the history of Abolitionism. John Brown launched his raid here, for which he was arrested and arraigned for treason, found guilty and hanged in Charles Town. That raid almost certainly contributed to the war that followed. As I travel through the area, it seems to me that the events of the 1860's were really not that long ago.
Harpers Ferry is a very pretty town with a most interesting history that pre- and post dates the war. It is well worth a visit.
Comments
Heinrich Voges 01/09/2013 07:57
Duncan, I really enjoy reading your blogs. I read with great interest the blogs from 26.8; 27.8; 28.8 and 29.8. They inspired me to refresh my dormant knowledge about the Civil War. 'Kansas-Nebraska Act', 'Gettysburg', 'Missouri Compromise' and 'Second Missouri Compromise' were somehow present. I doubt whether the name 'John Brown' only escaped my memory.
According to my reading five reasons are given which led to the the Civil War: economic and social differences between the South and the North, rights between the states and the federation, the clashes between slave and non-slaves proponents, the growth of the abolition movement and th election of A. Lincoln. this sounds plausible to me.
It is really a pity that the differences could not be solved through peaceful means but on battlefields.
However, the victory of the North was beneficial for the US. It secured its unity and led to the abolition of slavery.
Slavery is a real dark blot in the history of us Whites. It is immoral from a philosophical-anthropological and especially from a Christian standpoint.
If I would be younger I would accompany !
All the best for the time ahead of you !
Elisabeth and I had a good time together. I think she arrived now at O.R.Tambo
Heinrich
27/08/2013
1 Comment
Having spent the night in Charles Town WV with the objective of a short ride to Harpers Ferry the next day, I had an easy morning updating the blog and getting some washing dry. Air conditioning is a wonderful invention; and is even more to be appreciated on a muggy day such as yesterday was.
At the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park (Annual Pass is now more than paid for, Antietam was also 'free') the rangers at the entrance were obviously having a slow day. They were very keen to chat about my trip and could not have been more welcoming and helpful. I think I must be south of Mason Dixie.
When I went into the Visitor Centre I was surprised at the lack of emphasis on the War. In response to my questions, I was passed over to a young gentleman who perhaps had been waiting all morning for someone like me. Out came the map and I was treated to a really enthusiastic and knowledgeable description of the events of September 1862. Names of commanders, anecdotes, military appreciation, the whole box and dice. I was riveted, as were a few others who were standing around. Really Excellent.
A la Bryce Canyon, there was a shuttle bus, but with just the one stop in the lower old town. Harpers Ferry is fully open to the public and their vehicles, but in peak season you will not get parking. Take the shuttle bus.
The town is, or was, strategically important and during the war it changed hands several times. Located on the banks of the Potomac River, it has a wonderfully scenic location, nestled below the Maryland Heights. In its hey day, it was also an important industrial town, deriving power from the river to drive machinery, but in 1935 one more devastating flood saw the end of that era. It is today a commuter community (and popular tourist destination) for Washington DC and surrounding towns. I spent half an hour at the station waiting for Tom vdB and was entertained by two trains that passed through, as well as taking some additional photos of the very pretty town.
Talking of the town, I dropped into a shop - the name escapes me - looking for my Harpers Ferry sticker, and spoke to the owner Cindy and her assistant Crystal. Friendly, helpful and charming; as were all the folk I met at Harpers Ferry. I also really appreciated the air conditioning. It was really humid yesterday!
Harpers Ferry is also very important in the history of Abolitionism. John Brown launched his raid here, for which he was arrested and arraigned for treason, found guilty and hanged in Charles Town. That raid almost certainly contributed to the war that followed. As I travel through the area, it seems to me that the events of the 1860's were really not that long ago.
Harpers Ferry is a very pretty town with a most interesting history that pre- and post dates the war. It is well worth a visit.
Comments
Heinrich Voges 01/09/2013 07:57
Duncan, I really enjoy reading your blogs. I read with great interest the blogs from 26.8; 27.8; 28.8 and 29.8. They inspired me to refresh my dormant knowledge about the Civil War. 'Kansas-Nebraska Act', 'Gettysburg', 'Missouri Compromise' and 'Second Missouri Compromise' were somehow present. I doubt whether the name 'John Brown' only escaped my memory.
According to my reading five reasons are given which led to the the Civil War: economic and social differences between the South and the North, rights between the states and the federation, the clashes between slave and non-slaves proponents, the growth of the abolition movement and th election of A. Lincoln. this sounds plausible to me.
It is really a pity that the differences could not be solved through peaceful means but on battlefields.
However, the victory of the North was beneficial for the US. It secured its unity and led to the abolition of slavery.
Slavery is a real dark blot in the history of us Whites. It is immoral from a philosophical-anthropological and especially from a Christian standpoint.
If I would be younger I would accompany !
All the best for the time ahead of you !
Elisabeth and I had a good time together. I think she arrived now at O.R.Tambo
Heinrich
Manassas. Why Two Battles? And Changing of The Guard
28/08/2013
0 Comments
As will be seen from the photo in the Photos tab, the terrain at Manassas is quite unremarkable. It is the railway junction and its proximity to Washington DC that made this worth fighting over.
The First Battle of Manassas Virginia, or Bull Run; was the first real engagement of the war. Both sides were green and many thought the war would end when the other side lost the battle. The local population from both sides came and watched - from a little distance - but in the case of those from the North, that turned out to be too close! The Union forces appeared to be prevailing but were eventually routed, with the spectators being caught up in the retreat. It was at this battle that General Thomas Jefferson gained his sobriquet 'Stonewall'. His fellow General Barnard Elliot Bee Jr is said to have rallied his troops by referring them to Jackson holding his position like a stone wall. General Bee suffered mortal wounds in that battle.
I have been struck by a couple of observations of the war. The first is that it was very fluid, and territory could be fought over on more than one occasion. Harpers Ferry changed hands on several occasions and indeed, about a year later, there was the Second Battle of Manassas - also a Confederate victory. Another observation is the way infantry fought. They often (usually?) lined up in ranks opposite each other and tried to shoot each other to pieces. On all too many occasions they achieved this objective with eminent success. It may be because it is certainly easier to reload a musket while standing, but how foolish is that!?
At the Manassas Visitor Center I spoke with a volunteer guide about the necessity for a war of the shooting variety. He recounted to me a conspiracy theory, that the International Bankers precipitated the war to divide the USA which was beginning to challenge Europe economically! I listened respectfully, decided to keep silent about my occupation and moved on.
I took time out from educating myself in American history to try and change Australian history. I rode into Washington DC, in pouring rain, to vote at the Embassy.
The Americans know how to do symbolism. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe in Paris is iconic, but it is in the middle of a frantically busy traffic circle. In contrast, the Americans have Arlington National Cemetery, just across the Potomac from DC. One arrives to a sign advising that this is the holiest shrine in all of the country and visitors are to be silent and show respect. There are further signs around the more than 600 acres where the message is echoed more succinctly: SILENCE and RESPECT.
Arlington is perhaps better known to many as the burial place of President John F Kennedy. His grave, and that of Jackie and two children have a view across to the Lincoln Memorial. Bobby and Ted are nearby, too. But apart from being an operating cemetery, Arlington is the resting place of the Unknowns.
As per an act of Congress, procedures were established to choose the remains of unidentified soldiers from the major conflicts to be interred in the Tomb of the Unknown at Arlington. These dead soldiers have symbolically been awarded the Medal of Honour and their remains are guarded around the clock 365 days a year. It is simple and very solemn, with a sentry patrolling left and right with military precision drill. Each hour or half hour as the case may be, depending on the season, there is a ritualised Changing of the Guard. I will not describe it in detail, but you can see it on YouTube. This is a serious business and it helps me understand why so many of the serving military are so committed to, and proud of, their service and country.
On the way in I passed the Iwo Jima memorial. Wow! On my next visit to DC I will stop there.
Tom messaged me and we met near the Pentagon and rode home together. Some terrific roads, but two really serious traffic jams as well. A pleasant family dinner concluded the day.
Thanks, Tom, Gayla and Christine.
28/08/2013
0 Comments
As will be seen from the photo in the Photos tab, the terrain at Manassas is quite unremarkable. It is the railway junction and its proximity to Washington DC that made this worth fighting over.
The First Battle of Manassas Virginia, or Bull Run; was the first real engagement of the war. Both sides were green and many thought the war would end when the other side lost the battle. The local population from both sides came and watched - from a little distance - but in the case of those from the North, that turned out to be too close! The Union forces appeared to be prevailing but were eventually routed, with the spectators being caught up in the retreat. It was at this battle that General Thomas Jefferson gained his sobriquet 'Stonewall'. His fellow General Barnard Elliot Bee Jr is said to have rallied his troops by referring them to Jackson holding his position like a stone wall. General Bee suffered mortal wounds in that battle.
I have been struck by a couple of observations of the war. The first is that it was very fluid, and territory could be fought over on more than one occasion. Harpers Ferry changed hands on several occasions and indeed, about a year later, there was the Second Battle of Manassas - also a Confederate victory. Another observation is the way infantry fought. They often (usually?) lined up in ranks opposite each other and tried to shoot each other to pieces. On all too many occasions they achieved this objective with eminent success. It may be because it is certainly easier to reload a musket while standing, but how foolish is that!?
At the Manassas Visitor Center I spoke with a volunteer guide about the necessity for a war of the shooting variety. He recounted to me a conspiracy theory, that the International Bankers precipitated the war to divide the USA which was beginning to challenge Europe economically! I listened respectfully, decided to keep silent about my occupation and moved on.
I took time out from educating myself in American history to try and change Australian history. I rode into Washington DC, in pouring rain, to vote at the Embassy.
The Americans know how to do symbolism. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe in Paris is iconic, but it is in the middle of a frantically busy traffic circle. In contrast, the Americans have Arlington National Cemetery, just across the Potomac from DC. One arrives to a sign advising that this is the holiest shrine in all of the country and visitors are to be silent and show respect. There are further signs around the more than 600 acres where the message is echoed more succinctly: SILENCE and RESPECT.
Arlington is perhaps better known to many as the burial place of President John F Kennedy. His grave, and that of Jackie and two children have a view across to the Lincoln Memorial. Bobby and Ted are nearby, too. But apart from being an operating cemetery, Arlington is the resting place of the Unknowns.
As per an act of Congress, procedures were established to choose the remains of unidentified soldiers from the major conflicts to be interred in the Tomb of the Unknown at Arlington. These dead soldiers have symbolically been awarded the Medal of Honour and their remains are guarded around the clock 365 days a year. It is simple and very solemn, with a sentry patrolling left and right with military precision drill. Each hour or half hour as the case may be, depending on the season, there is a ritualised Changing of the Guard. I will not describe it in detail, but you can see it on YouTube. This is a serious business and it helps me understand why so many of the serving military are so committed to, and proud of, their service and country.
On the way in I passed the Iwo Jima memorial. Wow! On my next visit to DC I will stop there.
Tom messaged me and we met near the Pentagon and rode home together. Some terrific roads, but two really serious traffic jams as well. A pleasant family dinner concluded the day.
Thanks, Tom, Gayla and Christine.
Blue Ridge Mountains Skyline Drive Virginia
30/08/2013
1 Comment
For the ride down to Richmond, Tom suggested the long way round, with interesting (read winding) roads and wonderful scenery. When he mentioned the Blue Ridge Mountains it didn't take me too long to long to depart from my original thoughts of traveling via the Iwo Jima Memorial in DC, although it was considerably further.
Good move. The road developed some really nice bends when it entered the higher ground, but as the road was wet, I did not push it too hard. Visibility was very poor so the scenic views, of which there are many, were all obscured. However, I took photos here and there and they will prompt my memories in future. On the way up I came across a shop that sells solid wood furniture made with traditional tools. Flick to the Photos tab to have a grin.
Approaching lunch time I stopped at Big Meadow to have lunch and a break and on the way back to the bike was stopped by a couple from California and then a group of mixed bikers, to chat. Spent about fifteen minutes with the bikers who gave me some ideas for further south. Tail of the Dragon, anyone?
Visibility had improved a touch so I tried taking a few scenic shots. Not too successful, but on a clear day it is spectacular!
Skyline Drive requires entry to the Shenandoah National Park (another use of the Annual Pass :-) and it runs the full length of the Park. So, long and thin, it incorporated the Shenandoah River valley on the one side and the Virginia Piedmont on the other. Establishing a National Park in the heavily populated east of the USA required the acquisition of homes and farms and some folk would not go. They were expropriated with compensation but, even in the early 1930"s, there was a great deal of controversy over this. However, it is a gift of priceless worth to the citizens of the USA and indeed the world, in perpetuity.
Shortly after lunch I was surprised and very excited to see a black bear cross the road in front of me. I stopped and, while trying to get my camera out, there came another! I was too slow to get a photo, but them's the breaks. Deer are by now like kangaroos: they exist in almost plague proportions.
It was wonderfully cool on the Skyline Drive but eventually I had to turn off east and head for Richmond Va where I was to catch up with some old friends - and two new ones - for dinner. I last saw Frances, Myrt and Tammy about ten years ago, but we keep up via the medium of Facebook. Their cousin Jackie and I became FB friends perhaps a couple of years ago; and her husband Dave and their son Geordie were there too. A very pleasant evening.
Today I travel south and will drop in and see Frances and Tammy again. North Carolina awaits.
Comments
David 30/08/2013 05:59 A nice dinner with you Mac. Glad you enjoyed the Burgundy; perhaps the Adelaide would be better. Hope the rest of your trip meets your expectations, beware the Donner Pass.
30/08/2013
1 Comment
For the ride down to Richmond, Tom suggested the long way round, with interesting (read winding) roads and wonderful scenery. When he mentioned the Blue Ridge Mountains it didn't take me too long to long to depart from my original thoughts of traveling via the Iwo Jima Memorial in DC, although it was considerably further.
Good move. The road developed some really nice bends when it entered the higher ground, but as the road was wet, I did not push it too hard. Visibility was very poor so the scenic views, of which there are many, were all obscured. However, I took photos here and there and they will prompt my memories in future. On the way up I came across a shop that sells solid wood furniture made with traditional tools. Flick to the Photos tab to have a grin.
Approaching lunch time I stopped at Big Meadow to have lunch and a break and on the way back to the bike was stopped by a couple from California and then a group of mixed bikers, to chat. Spent about fifteen minutes with the bikers who gave me some ideas for further south. Tail of the Dragon, anyone?
Visibility had improved a touch so I tried taking a few scenic shots. Not too successful, but on a clear day it is spectacular!
Skyline Drive requires entry to the Shenandoah National Park (another use of the Annual Pass :-) and it runs the full length of the Park. So, long and thin, it incorporated the Shenandoah River valley on the one side and the Virginia Piedmont on the other. Establishing a National Park in the heavily populated east of the USA required the acquisition of homes and farms and some folk would not go. They were expropriated with compensation but, even in the early 1930"s, there was a great deal of controversy over this. However, it is a gift of priceless worth to the citizens of the USA and indeed the world, in perpetuity.
Shortly after lunch I was surprised and very excited to see a black bear cross the road in front of me. I stopped and, while trying to get my camera out, there came another! I was too slow to get a photo, but them's the breaks. Deer are by now like kangaroos: they exist in almost plague proportions.
It was wonderfully cool on the Skyline Drive but eventually I had to turn off east and head for Richmond Va where I was to catch up with some old friends - and two new ones - for dinner. I last saw Frances, Myrt and Tammy about ten years ago, but we keep up via the medium of Facebook. Their cousin Jackie and I became FB friends perhaps a couple of years ago; and her husband Dave and their son Geordie were there too. A very pleasant evening.
Today I travel south and will drop in and see Frances and Tammy again. North Carolina awaits.
Comments
David 30/08/2013 05:59 A nice dinner with you Mac. Glad you enjoyed the Burgundy; perhaps the Adelaide would be better. Hope the rest of your trip meets your expectations, beware the Donner Pass.
Ordinary Folk Living with Extraordinary History
31/08/2013
2 Comments
For a relatively 'young' country, the USA has a rich history. They also understand how to protect and preserve it. It is not at all unusual for ordinary Americans to conduct their lives in the midst of that history, in their towns and indeed their very homes.
Yesterday was, by my standards, a very short ride, a little over ninety minutes. Down the I95 and then branch off to Courtland VA where I was to catch up again with Frances and Tammy.
Frances runs a small hairdressing business from her home and she sees it as her ministry to cut the hair of the elderly as well. Her sister-in-law Betty Ann was just leaving as I arrived and after a brief chat she invited us over to see her home later in the day.
Frances then cut my hair. She is really good and I regret that I am averaging only one cut with her every ten years. Soon after that Dennis arrived for a haircut with his wife Susan. They have a Harley and also belong to the Christian Motorcyclists Association. They are going later this year to Vanuatu as missionaries, she to teach and he to set up a feeding program for children. They offered to pray for me and, as mentioned before, I greatly value Divine assistance.
Frances' husband Ron arrived home after his golf and Tammy also returned from her morning job. Frances then drove Tammy and me to visit Betty Ann and her husband Frank, who is the brother of Frances and Myrt.
A few years ago Frank retired and they left Northern Virginia to return to the south; and they bought the historic home pictured above. It was built in 1790 and although updated with modern plumbing, electricity and bathrooms and a kitchen, much of the interior is pretty original. For example, the ceilings are 14' high, there are no built-in cupboards and the doors are rather large and heavy and 'lock' with a wooden plank in brackets across the opening. Lath and plaster construction dominates and of interest was the staircase in 'Jefferson' style.
The dwelling block has been subdivided from the original plantation, but in the absence of fences and other boundary demarcations it appears to still be part of the plantation. Being familiar with the old song 'Cotton fields', it gave me a little buzz to see the cotton fields surrounding the house with the white of the swelling cotton bolls punctuating the greenery.
Frank gave me a tour of the outside as well, and while looking across to the family graveyard of the former family, gave me some more history of the house and the region.
Back inside the house we experienced cool relief from the outside heat and humidity, helped along by a slice of cold watermelon.
After returning to Courtland I said my farewells to Frances, Ron and Tammy and after photos, put the bike in gear and headed for the North Carolina border and Murfreesboro where I was to stay the Labor Day weekend with another old friend, Jennifer, who owns a bed and breakfast and wine bar. This building dates back to 1808 and has a notable history from that time. Just another example of real history being part of everyday life. More on The Commons and Murfreesboro in the next few days.
Comments
David link 01/09/2013 16:44 Here is a link to my blog; it's really a column I write for the local newspaper, a bit over two years now:
http://butterside-up.blogspot.com/
Reply
Charles 02/09/2013 23:09 "Average one cut every 10 years" - had to laugh! :-)
Small Town America Up Close
02/09/2013
3 Comments
The Commons was built by the Rea family whose history was entwined with that of the USA since its early days. Boston merchants appreciated the commercial opportunities afforded by the navigability of the Meherrin river and proceeded to profit from shipping in goods. The wealth afforded the means to establish large homes in the town, and The Commons is perhaps a prime example.
As the road and rail system improved the port of Murfreesboro experienced a decline in traffic and ceased operations as recently as the 1960's; and growth of the town has pretty well stagnated since then. However, it is the home of Chowan University and it is also a dormitory town for Ahoskie, some fifteen miles south.
The town is largely black but it seems that with few exceptions the social circles are quite homogenous. There also seems to be a pronounced divide between the 'old' residents whose families have been here for generations, and the newcomers. There is another informal line between those who are long term owners of the historic homes. These folk are referred to as 'the Upper crust of Murfreesboro'. It is an interesting social cross-section.
The Commons ceased being a home some decades ago, and has served variously as a funeral home, a florist and a gift shop. My friend Jennifer moved to Murfreesboro with her husband about ten years ago and soon after purchased The Commons. After establishing a bed and breakfast, wine shop and small restaurant, she renovated the building extensively, and you can see from the photo how impressive it is.
Jennifer is also a trained chef and her culinary skills are shown off in her breakfast and dinner menus. And while doing that, she has researched the history of the Rea family and is writing an historical novel. She is one energetic lady!
During my stayed I had the pleasure of meeting a number of people. One couple was Dennis and his wife Pamela, from Maryland. They were down to attend a family reunion but we had the opportunity to conduct some long conversations. Dennis is a former Vietnam combat veteran and rides a Harley. Although retired, he still coaches tennis to keep busy. Pamela is a physician at a rehab hospital who has an amazing life story. The are going to South Africa later this year and are sure to have a wonderful time.
Last night the wine bar was a noisy place with Tim and Teresa, who also run a bed and breakfast, Tom and Bridget who are shortly returning to Australia to live, Ellie and her sister Susan. And today I shared in a game of bridge with seven other folk from the town. It was great to meet so many of the local folk.
On Sunday Jennifer drove us to Portsmouth where we had a pleasant lunch overlooking the waterways. Sometimes one just needs to get away from Murfreesboro, it seems!
Did I mention I worked on Saturday evening? Some folk booked in for dinner at short notice and as it was a holiday weekend, the usual help was not available. I last used my waiter skills over forty years ago but I seemed to do OK!
I am keen to get going again. I am aiming for Charlotte NC where the bike is to receive its 20,000 km service and a new front tyre.
Charlotte North Carolina; and an Australian Catch-up
04/09/2013
3 Comments
At 9.00am I delivered the bike into the tender loving care of Motorcycles of Charlotte and then called the daughter of a friend who is studying at the Charlotte campus of the Reformed Theological Seminary. Bethany was free so I caught a cab there and on the way observed the houses, apartments, gardens and churches. There is clearly a lot of wealth in the city and the cab driver remarked that there is a lot of white-collar employment in the region.
I recalled that Charlotte is where Bank of America has its headquarters, as does the east coast operations of Wells Fargo. North Carolina is, measured by assets, the second largest financial centre in the USA after New York. Wow! Greater metropolitan Charlotte only has a population of about 2.4 million. Perhaps I should have brought my CV.
Beth and I spent a pleasant couple of hours talking, during which we realized that she had been at the same school as my daughter Fiona, who was a year ahead. More to chat about!
After that I cabbed into the city and I alighted in the main street. Apart from being quite awed by the architecture and the sheer scale of some of the buildings, I was struck by how much it felt like Melbourne. No trams, but just the ambience of wide, treed streets, a free city circle bus of some vintage, and the office people out walking. Quite a few bicycles were in evidence and there is also a short term rental operation a la the RACV. Yes, they are also blue!
In the main thoroughfare there are some commemorative plaques, informing the reader of some interesting facts. One was that citizens of Mecklenburg County resolved In 1775 to declare independence from Britain, which of course predates the USA declaration which was the following year. A battle was fought in Charlotte in 1880 in the Revolutionary War, but it was nothing more than a skirmish, really. Another interesting fact is that the Cabinet of the Confederacy met in Charlotte in its last days.
There was a rather congenial chap operating hot dog stand on the footpath so that was the source of my lunch. I was quite impressed that he picked my accent.
It was time to go and fetch my bike and I resolved to use public transport, having blown my taxi budget for the year that morning. So I strolled down past the rather impressive Time Warner Stadium to the Lynx station. This is a new light rail system running north south. It cost me $2.00 to ride all but two stations of its full length of 15.5 kms. Very reasonable. I think they have plans to extend it. I needed to catch the bus to complete my journey and was pleased to find out my $2.00 took care of that as well. As social commentary, I was one of two white people on the bus, the other being the driver.
The bus dropped me over the road from the dealership and I was rather pleased with myself for a) finding the dealership so easily b) having used public transport and c) having paid $2.00 compared to the $60 odd for the two taxi rides. The bike was ready, with its new front tyre. The BMW folk were very friendly and helpful and I also received the part for my helmet from Schuberth USA that they said they would try for. Happy!
At the Shell servo I was filling up when this guy jumps out of his car and says "Take a wrong turn, mate?" A New Zealander!
Some may have noted that there was no blog on my ride from Murfreesboro to Charlotte. This is because I simply laid down rubber. All I can say is 300 miles, five and a half hours, stinking hot and humid and nothing of interest to see.
So leaving Charlotte, a very attractive city, I headed for the hills, known in this part of the world as the Smokies, and after a ride through the afternoon heat found myself a billet at the Best Western in Hendersonville NC. Tomorrow I hope to ride the Tail of the Dragon across into Tennessee. There is a section of eleven miles that has ........ 318 bends!
Comments
Liz 06/09/2013 07:31 Aussie or South African?
Reply
Duncan 07/09/2013 14:30 John Wilson's daughter. (Australian)
Reply
Liz 08/09/2013 05:14 No ... what accent did he guess?
Back to Beauty
05/09/2013
2 Comments
This morning I had to make the hard decision not to take the Blue Ridge Parkway, opting instead for a less scenic but more direct route to get to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. While my objective for the day was the Tail of the Dragon (Route 159) in the south of the park, I wanted to see the central section as well. This would be done by entering at Cherokee, riding west in the direction of Gatlinburg, and then heading south west via Cades Cove to join the Dragon.
On the way to the park I noted several large industrial enterprises parked in the middle of nowhere, often paper mills. These businesses basically are the life blood of the town adjacent to them. Should the business close, the town is decimated. People leave, and property prices plummet and never recover. This happens.
Cherokee is a tacky, tawdry, tourist trap. It purports to be owned and operated by Indians and I suppose it is, but that is no recommendation. I did not stop, such was the negative impact on me of the appearance of the place. One comes around a corner and rearing skyward perhaps ten stories is a PARKING GARAGE. For the casino. And over the road is a 24/7 pawn shop. I did say tacky.
Turn right and a few miles further on is the entrance to the USA's most visited national park. Nine million people a year. It is very similar in appearance to the Blue Ridge Mountains NP, but that is because it is also part of the Appalachian mountain range. After the miles of agricultural lands, miles of roads and town after town - all pretty, mind you - it was a delight to see once again the verdant mountains and tumbling streams that seem to me so uniquely American. It is also biker country, and I enjoyed again the camaraderie of exchanging salutes with other riders as they passed by. Wade Abbott and Patsy stopped for a chat and were very friendly and interested in the trip and before that, in Maggie's Valley, there must have been four couples all chatting to me over coffee and giving me advice!
One benefit of going across the park from the Cherokee entrance is that you can take the side road to Clingman's Dome, which is the highest point in the park at 6,643 ft. This fourteen mile round trip is very popular. The car park was nigh on full, and hardly a school kid in sight. I imagine that in August (school holidays) it would be pandemonium up there.
Having crossed to the west of the park, I was now in Tennessee. I shot into Gatlinburg to fill up with gas and shot back into the park to take the Little River Road to Cade's Cove. Very pretty, but irritating being stuck behind cars insisting on traveling 30 mph and not allowing me to pass. In Cade's Cove I came across a lengthy line of cars. I rode up the side, annoying a few of the entitled, to find a black bear on the side of the road. There are many signs saying not to stop, but some folk......
At the old cable mill there is a dirt track through the forest to the Tail, called the Parsons Branch Road. Road? Ha! There is a sign saying, like, do you really want to take this road? Well, I did and so I went. What a blast! Raw, natural beauty. Dirt road all the way, crossing rivers, potholes, steep ascents that had to come down the other side. The bike was surefooted and my confidence built rapidly, so I had to talk to myself to take it easy. I really did not want to try out the SOS function on my satellite tracker.
At the end of the track, thoroughly pleased with myself, I turned east onto the Dragon back towards North Carolina, and took off. Wow! What beautifully cambered bends! I was carving them up very nicely and caught up with some Harley riders. These machines cannot corner so I was slowed up behind them. One cannot pass on the Dragon. Eventually I pulled to the side and rested a while before completing it. Then I spoke to a chap on an 1150RT who told me I had missed more than half of it. Easily fixed. I had a late lunch at Deal's Gap and then turned around and did it in full, but from North Carolina back into Tennessee! Yep, just an awesome road. I should mention that the bikers are generally well behaved on this stretch of road. However, one or two cagers behaved like inconsiderate fools.
It was getting late and I was feeling a little weary, so I made course for Madisonville where I thought I might find a bed for the night. A slight wrong turn took me past a sign for Sweetberries B&B and so here I am. I will start early tomorrow to ensure I get a good run at the Cherohala Skyway before heading for Atlanta where I will pick up John Habgood. Hope you are packed, John. Please bring a bottle of decent red!
Georgia on my mind
07/09/2013
2 Comments
Yesterday morning I was treated to a magnificent breakfast. An apple muffin of generous proportions topped with whipped cream was placed before me (and my host, Darryl). I demolished mine in a flash and then was presented with a sausage and egg casserole which could easily have served two. Before I was finished that, the piece de resistance appeared: a bowl of mixed berries. (I assume this might be from where the name Sweetberries is derived). I apologised for not finishing the casserole, because I just needed to deal with the 'dessert'. Pretty awesome and I announced that my next meal would be dinner!
Darrell, (he has a Harley!) his wife Louise and I had a long, wide-ranging chat over breakfast and my plans for an early start were forgotten. They are both nurses but are steadily building their B&B business. A very pleasant Christian couple who sent me on my way with a prayer and several maps showing the best biking roads in the area.
The Cherohala Skyway beckoned. The approach was stunning, riding through trees shading the road with the sun sparkling on the roadside river. It was still beautifully fresh and it was exhilarating to ride with the road largely to myself in both directions, with gentle, sweeping curves being good practice for the path ahead.
Soon the gradient steepened as it climbed the Tennessee side of the Smokies. The road is in excellent condition but the bends are not as well cambered as they are on the Tail of the Dragon. Still, it was good riding in the verdant surroundings that are so much a part of the American scenery. Like the Dragon, there are few scenic overlooks, and those there were were pretty but not stunning; and unlike the Dragon there are few turnouts where slow traffic can let quicker travelers get ahead.
An historic feature of the Smokies is that in the late 1800's to about the 1920's commercial loggers pretty well denuded most of the natural forest, leaving the hills bare and susceptible to soil erosion and devastating fires. Public outcry led to the purchase of the land for the establishment of the National park in the 1930's. Public subscriptions were raised to assist the acquisition of the land. A far sighted act.
The Cherohala Skyway is regarded by many if not most as one of the world's top biking roads and I would not disagree, even though I have limited experience. The Tail of the Dragon, and I remind the readers: 318 bends in eleven miles; has to be a contender for number one. How blessed is America to have this plenitude of superb biking roads? I have been fortunate enough to ride a few and (DV) I plan to ride a few more. But regardless of when and where those may be, I have tamed the Dragon!
As the road descended from its maximum height of about 5,300 feet to the relatively low lying Robbinsville, I was held up by the strangest vehicle I have seen in many moons. It was a Harley Davidson, effectively with full size training wheels!! I wish I could have taken a photo!
My time in the hills over for the time being (Colorado is to be reprised) and I plotted a course for Georgia. The plan was to get a couple of hours out from Atlanta, stop for the night and hit Atlanta airport Saturday evening to collect John H. I had heard about the Amicalola Falls from an old friend of mine and it suited my purposes to stay there, especially as it is in the North Georgia hills and somewhat cooler than the sweltering and humid flatlands. Well, that part worked, but TripAdvisor will be getting a review from me about the Lodge that is less than glowing. The paint was peeling, the furniture shabby and the plumbing barely adequate. And the WiFi didn't work. This was an issue because AT&T reception was too flaky get signal bars never mind 3G. It was expensive for what it was and did not include breakfast. Not happy, Jan.
However, Laura P was in the area and we had breakfast together and then she showed me the very attractive falls just a short drive away. The best viewing is from below, so I climbed down the 425 stairs to get my photos. And then I climbed back up!
After that she drove and I rode to the Wolf Mountain Winery, which is a very well set up cellar door and restaurant. A few of their wines - they really do only blends - were rather pleasant. They were doing roaring trade. I bade Laura farewell and just took the main roads to Atlanta. It was hot and the people drive very fast. When the road sign says 'Reduced Speed Ahead' they take zero notice. Some even accelerate. It is hair raising driving past on ramps, where those entering are driving much faster than those in the slow lane, and there seems to be heaps of aggression. I will be glad to get out of here.
John H has arrived and seems to have packed, but it may have been a bit of a squeeze!
Tomorrow we strike out for Mobile Alabama
Comments
Heinrich Voges (hrkvoges@tci.co.za) 08/09/2013 04:19
Hi Duncan, I think you had not only a good ride - but you also enjoyded the news from Australia.
Heinrich
Reply
Duncan (mcduncan@bigpond.net.au) 09/09/2013 04:42
Hello Heinrich
The ride is good and the election result has even improved my fuel consumption!
Sweet Home Alabama
9/09/2013
0 Comments
John's first day on the pillion was clear and cool to start with and, while I found running down the i85 rather boring, it was for him new and therefore interesting. For a while. We therefore agreed to take the byways for a time but in exchange for more pleasant riding, one goes hungry and thirsty. Services for travelers do not exist in small town America. Actually, they do not exist even for the residents. When one does come to a town with an eating establishment or perhaps two or even three, it had, in the Deep South, better not be on a Sunday! (Because it will be closed). So when we needed a break, we GPS'd it back to the interstate, where Mammon doth trade seven days a week; and refreshed ourselves. Yesterday's KFC lunch did not touch sides!
We rode through the centre of Montgomery, the capital of Alabama, and were impressed by the grandeur of their public buildings. We were also impressed by the accuracy of the Lonely Planet guide's executive summary of Downtown Montgomery: 'dead'. With no obvious place in sight to eat or drink, we retraced our steps a few miles to give John his first USA Walmart experience. It is an impressive emporium.
Back on the road we rolled past the odd cotton field, but the number and scale of Chinese and Korean industrial enterprises is stunning! No trade union power down here. What a difference that makes to the investment climate.
Our last stop on the road just outside Mobile was really good smelling Italian restaurant, but we just wanted coffee. Well, cappuccino. We got coffee. But the muzak was fifties and sixties, really easy, and we enjoyed Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and music of that era.
When approaching Mobile one is immediately struck by two very large buildings that dominate the city skyline. In fact, they are the skyline. They seem over done for a small city of some 200,000 people; and one that has such a rich fabric of charming homes and old buildings where the influence of the French is so much in evidence. Also, the roads indicate that money has been spent on infrastructure.
We landed at a hotel right next door to the museum where the battleship USS Alabama is moored and many military artefacts are on display. It is also home to War Memorials for Vietnam and Korea. I am always moved by Vietnam memorials. I guess they resonate with me because of my army service in the late sixties and through the seventies.
After a swim we walked to the Captain's Table restaurant next door where we were well looked after by Lagina and Michelle, who helped us with local information with their delightful Southern accents, charm and humour. The food was good and plentiful and the Muzak just like that we heard earlier.
A pity we cannot stay longer but that is the nature of this trip.
9/09/2013
0 Comments
John's first day on the pillion was clear and cool to start with and, while I found running down the i85 rather boring, it was for him new and therefore interesting. For a while. We therefore agreed to take the byways for a time but in exchange for more pleasant riding, one goes hungry and thirsty. Services for travelers do not exist in small town America. Actually, they do not exist even for the residents. When one does come to a town with an eating establishment or perhaps two or even three, it had, in the Deep South, better not be on a Sunday! (Because it will be closed). So when we needed a break, we GPS'd it back to the interstate, where Mammon doth trade seven days a week; and refreshed ourselves. Yesterday's KFC lunch did not touch sides!
We rode through the centre of Montgomery, the capital of Alabama, and were impressed by the grandeur of their public buildings. We were also impressed by the accuracy of the Lonely Planet guide's executive summary of Downtown Montgomery: 'dead'. With no obvious place in sight to eat or drink, we retraced our steps a few miles to give John his first USA Walmart experience. It is an impressive emporium.
Back on the road we rolled past the odd cotton field, but the number and scale of Chinese and Korean industrial enterprises is stunning! No trade union power down here. What a difference that makes to the investment climate.
Our last stop on the road just outside Mobile was really good smelling Italian restaurant, but we just wanted coffee. Well, cappuccino. We got coffee. But the muzak was fifties and sixties, really easy, and we enjoyed Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and music of that era.
When approaching Mobile one is immediately struck by two very large buildings that dominate the city skyline. In fact, they are the skyline. They seem over done for a small city of some 200,000 people; and one that has such a rich fabric of charming homes and old buildings where the influence of the French is so much in evidence. Also, the roads indicate that money has been spent on infrastructure.
We landed at a hotel right next door to the museum where the battleship USS Alabama is moored and many military artefacts are on display. It is also home to War Memorials for Vietnam and Korea. I am always moved by Vietnam memorials. I guess they resonate with me because of my army service in the late sixties and through the seventies.
After a swim we walked to the Captain's Table restaurant next door where we were well looked after by Lagina and Michelle, who helped us with local information with their delightful Southern accents, charm and humour. The food was good and plentiful and the Muzak just like that we heard earlier.
A pity we cannot stay longer but that is the nature of this trip.
Breakfast, Biloxi and Baton Rouge
09/09/2013
0 Comments
On the advice of Jennifer W whose hometown is Mobile, we took a turn through the CBD on our way out, taking in Government and Dauphin Streets. Like many older cities, the historic facades lend character and charm to the streetscapes. In Mobile there is evidence of the French influence, with cafes and restaurants scattered in between the period homes and other buildings. There are, as mentioned in the preceding post, some impressive new buildings and these stand cheek by jowl with the old; but it does seem that architectural style has been required of the developers.
But it was remarkable that the CBD is tiny and the rush hour nonexistent. We enjoyed our breakfast with coffee (5/10) on the footpath and were not even remotely inconvenienced by the passing traffic. The pace of life in Mobile does seem slower.
Time to leave and we used the interstate to clear the suburbs and then we dropped off the I90, expecting to see views to the Gulf of Mexico. Nope. The topography is so flat there are no views of anything other than the buildings along the road. Thus we travelled many miles past the modern, utilitarian commercial design of shops and homes which are functional but not pleasing to the eye. Biloxi Mississippi was our interim destination and our intention to find a restaurant with a view.
Entry to Biloxi from the east is spectacular, with a new bridge that sweeps in an elegant curve before rising majestically to arch over the water. It seems that this replaced the last, inadequate bridge that was knocked about by Hurricane Katrina. A mile or so beyond that we came across McElroy's Seafood Restaurant, high on stilts looking over the shrimp harbour and out to sea. It transpired that the place had been there for forty years, but Katrina had destroyed it. Our guess is insurance had paid out on condition it was rebuilt on stilts thirty foot high! See the photo page. But although it is a new building, our waiter Cissy informed us our gumbo recipe was the same one used since the place opened. It was pretty good.
We didn't rush lunch, watching the boats coming and going, the pelicans diving on fish; and marvelling at the reasonable prices given the elevated views. In Melbourne we would have been charged an entry fee.
Once again we left air conditioned comfort and kitted up in the hot, humid noonday sun and soon were sprinting down the interstate with the cars and trucks. The trip across Mississippi was a little unusual as we did not spend a night in the state, and Louisiana beckoned. As we were laying down miles on the interstate the journey was unremarkable, except for the high number of folk who travel at high speeds with a cell phone to their ears. Not against the law, it would seem, though texting while driving is illegal.
At Denham Springs about 25 miles short of Zachary, our intended destination for the night, we stopped for a rest and randomly selected the Cactus Cafe. We were engaged by a friendly waitress who recommended the sizzling apple pie. Rich, tasty, sweet, good! And certainly not for diabetics. She also gave us a detailed run down on things to do and places to avoid in Baton Rouge. It apparently has the highest crime rate in the country. She scared us out of considering Port Allen as an alternative to Zachary, out of visiting the city of Baton Rouge and even calling on a police station, as they are enclosed in razor wire and people get murdered right outside. Welcome to Baton Rouge!!
I made sure to follow her advice in staying on the I10 and kept a weather eye open on the ride to Zachary. It didn't look too dodgy and I didn't feel at all unsafe. But we will not test her version of things and the city of Baton Rouge will only see my registration plate as we leave tomorrow.
So how will we get to take photos of the Mississippi? John is keen of course as he has never seen it, and I want to compare it to how I saw it in Iowa. Watch this space.
Pizza and a beer for dinner and once again our hosts were friendly and very polite. Brooke at the Japanese restaurant organised our beers and shared some stories about her life in Louisiana and a couple of tips on things to see. The Scenic Byway seems to be a winner. Thanks, Brooke!
Tomorrow it is once again Westward, ho!
That Ol' Man River
10/09/2013
0 Comments
At the same time as being regaled with decadent sizzling apple pie, we were put off from visiting Baton Rouge. We were quite scared, in fact. The aftermath of Hurricane Katrina saw many displaced people move, and Baton Rouge, already in social decline; saw an acceleration in crime rates. Zachary was a good choice of a place to stay.
This morning at the Best Western it was suggested that we consider visiting St Francisville to the north, as it was home to many impressive ante bellum plantation homes and churches. After that, US 1 to Alexandria would be quite attractive and then an easy run over to Leesville. We duly made a right and then a left and some twenty miles later found ourselves in the very quaint town of St Francisville. We were keen to see the Mississippi and, following a hunch, I took a detour past some lovely old houses that led to a road that took us where we wanted to go. It seemed as if there was once a ferry at that point as we observed a road on the opposite bank leading to the water, but these days it was merely a launching ramp for fishing boats. While there is clearly a huge amount of industry around and dependent on this working river, where we were, there were piles of abandoned equipment, including cranes, propellers etc, indeed a veritable scrap yard. We retraced our steps to the town, where we noticed that their tiny office had been opened in 1975 by Bill Clinton and the Postmaster General. Why?
John had noticed in the distance a bridge that seemed top cross the river and a helpful local provided accurate directions. This turned out to be the new John James Audubon Bridge, which is the second longest cable -stayed bridge in the Western Hemisphere. It opened in 2010, replacing.... a ferry! This saved us a thirty mile ride back to Baton Rouge and also took us directly to Highway LA1. On this stretch of the road, on a whim, I tried my satellite radio. Eureka! It worked, and for the next few miles I rocked along singing with Billy Joel, the Eagles and others.
Heading for Simmesport I noticed a sign which said 'Old River Lock'. I barely hesitated in making the right turn, taking us down a road clearly less traveled. There were, as there are in so many parts of rural America, abandoned homes. One wonders about the human stories behind these forlorn, decrepit; structures.
Soon at the lock, we were on the bridge taking photos when a chap emerged from below and invited us to inspect the control room for the lock and drawbridge. We accepted and were allowed entry into the security area and rode down to the lock where we met Raymond (see photos page). He is enthusiastic about his job as a lock keeper in the US Army Corps of Engineers and very efficiently gave us a quick education on some of the issues and history of the Mississippi, its tributaries and distributaries. Fascinating stuff! He was highly entertaining and we were very grateful for his interest.
We retraced our steps to Highway 1 and made it to Alexandria for lunch. There the GPS took us to the 'Tamp and Grind' coffee shop. There we met Kwyncy (see photo page) who told us he didn't do lunch; but he then came outside to give us directions to the 'Word of Mouth' restaurant, which did. He told us he had spent a summer term at Cambridge University and had, amongst other things, studied Espionage. He had also learned the rules of cricket. John and I decided on the spot that he was a fine fellow and that we would return for a coffee after lunch. This decision was made easier by the delicious coffee aroma that pervaded the establishment.
When we returned as planned, we had a lovely chat with Kwyncy and a few of his patrons about things to do in Louisiana. We had a really good time, including trying to learn how to pronounce the names of these places.
Departing the Tamp and Grind we sped along to Leesville, sweltering in 36.0 degree heat. Not pleasant! Into the Best Western we hastened, keen to experience the effectiveness of their air conditioning. Pass!
I contacted my bridge friend Jackie and went around to visit her and her husband Morris in their beautifully restored Victorian home. We spent the next number of hours catching up, with me discovering that Morris, until recently, was a very serious bike tourer. We have ridden some of the same roads and we enjoyed reminiscing about them, including the Tail of the Dragon! They very kindly treated me to a Mexican meal and all too soon I had to take my leave of this delightful couple. I hope we meet again.
The pace of life in Louisiana and Mississippi, at least in the parts we have visited, seems to be slow and relaxed, but also steady and reassuring. Much like that Ol' Man River that so dominates this part of the country.
The Leaving of Louisiana
11/09/2013
1 Comment
As mentioned previously, the freely proffered advice of people we meet is welcomed with gratitude. This is the way we get to see things that we otherwise might not. Yesterday we were told that we should make an effort to see Natchitoches because it is a very pretty town. It was also entertaining/educational to hear how this name is pronounced. Hands up if you knew - or guessed - that it is 'Nak-a-toshe'.
Natchitoches was established in 1714 by the French, who actually owned most of the mid-west between the Rockies and the Mississippi River until 1800, at which time the USA under Thomas Jefferson acquired it from Napoleon Bonaparte for the paltry sum of $15 million. Something like $230 m or 43 c an acre in 2012 dollars. A steal perhaps, but France was a willing seller.
The town was caught up in the Red River campaign of the War between the States and was about to be torched by the retreating Union army, but representations by town leaders and the arrival of the Confederate Army saved the day. Consequently, many original homes grace the streets of this university town, which also happens to host a basilica of the Roman Catholic church.
Our destination for the day was Magnolia Arkansas and serendipity took us there via the town of Minden Louisiana. Being lunch time, a noshery was required. I parked the bike in the main street and John remarked that on the way in he had observed a cafe, one block down. I moved the bike while he strolled and we walked in upon what seemed to be a fairy tale. We had stumbled upon the Timeless Café and Tea Room. This is a local project run by the Presbyterian Church, supported by the Town and community of Minden, to provide employment for the intellectually challenged. What an excellent idea! And it is SO well done. Great food, friendly service and bright, novel, welcoming surroundings.
One of the managers, Terri , spent some time explaining the project to us and their plans to expand it. And she also gave us great ideas on how to proceed northwards to Magnolia.
We thoroughly enjoyed our lunch and the social interaction with the various folk we met. Great work, people, and bless you for it.
Up the road via Shongaloo (sounds like a South African millipede to me!), but a little concerned about the Navweather severe weather alerts coming at me via the GPS. A little more speed was applied and we made Magnolia just before 3 pm. An early day meant a swim and a guest laundry meant washing could be done. We think our wives would be proud of us!
Louisiana has been a lovely and interesting state. Like all the others, one could/should spend longer exploring it. The French influence along the Gulf coast and into North Louisiana is a history I would love to know more about. Hopefully another trip is in our future. But in the cooler, less humid months!
We left Louisiana with the glow of the friendliness and helpfulness of the many folk we met. Thank you all!
Comments
Charles 12/09/2013 23:39 'Nak-a-toshe'.
Almost like Tokoloshe!
Arkansas.
12/09/2013
1 Comment
Our evening in Magnolia AR was a quiet affair at what seemed to be the poshest restaurant in the town. We were looking forward to a good meal and a glass of wine. The meals were ok but, as usual, deep fried. What set us back on our heels was the revelation that Magnolia is in a 'dry' county and therefore there was no - legal - alcohol to be had. That cast a dampener on proceedings and we also found the waiters not as engaging as we had come to expect. Perhaps because they do not drink?
On our walk back to the hotel we passed by the well stocked shops in the CBD and the very large Baptist church, which has ornate furniture and a very costly chandelier in the foyer. We wondered if they had some influence on the alcohol laws in town.
At breakfast someone reckoned we should take the AR7 Scenic Byway to Hot Springs. This was deemed a good idea and it was certainly better than charging down the interstate. It was quite attractive, but a negative was the three dogs that ran across the road when we were just short of Arkadelphia. One was clear by the time I was upon them, I missed the second by perhaps a metre (travelling at 60 mph) and the third actually ran into the back of the bike as we passed. It fell over, but recovered and ran off. That was a close call.
Morning tea (apple cobbler) followed in Arkadelphia. Completely coincidentally we selected a cafe that is run on the same principles as the Timeless Cafe in Minden La. Very pleasant, but not quite the same......and so on to Hot Springs.
The approach from the south, framed as it is with water, is very pretty; but then one passes through the urban sprawl. Once at the CBD one is presented with a very striking streetscape of bath houses, hotels and government buildings. Clearly catering to tourists. Wealthy ones. We went into the Hot Springs National Park at the top of the mountain and took the lift to the top of the observation tower, enjoying the vista of the town nestled in the green of the surrounding forests and hills.
At the bottom we looked for a lunch place and there chatted to the waiters and then some other bikers as we left. It had rained while we were eating so it was with damp bums that we proceeded further north up Scenic 7 to Ola, AR where we turned west on AR10, concluding our ride for the day in Fort Smith AR. Five hours twenty minutes in the saddle and 414 kms. A quick swim and then a leisurely dinner at the Outback restaurant - with wine - closed out the day.
Arkansas is perhaps the poorest state through which I have traveled. Grinding poverty is evident almost everywhere. Very few large businesses were observed, although one should not forget this is the home of Walmart. The topography is relatively flat and there are, apart from Hot Springs, no obvious tourism drawcards. There are rivers and lakes, but as America is blessed with an abundance of these, it is really just the residents who use them. Perhaps I have just been spoilt.
Comments
tammy h 13/09/2013 14:05 the fine folks at the Aspen Hotel & Suites in Fort Smith, AR were very pleased that you stayed with us during your trip. Hope to see you the next time.
The Battle of Honey Springs. A Road Less Travelled
14/09/2013
1 Comment
We had a very pleasant time at Fort Smith, with the team at Aspen under Tammy H being very welcoming to every guest. Tammy is an experienced pillion so I popped her on the back and she gave me a quick tour of the CBD, showing me a particular turn not to miss when heading for Oklahoma.
In the morning we took that turn unerringly and through some passing showers were on our way to try and find the site of the Battle of Honey Springs, known to the Confederacy as The Affair at Elk Creek. The morning stop for coffee and what ever might appeal to our palates was Gore OK. We had passed through rather unprepossessing scenery and Gore fitted right in. The old fire engine on the corner was the most exciting thing we had seen! However, opening the door to Emily's Restaurant was like entering Aladdin's Cave. A riot - but an organised and tidy riot - of colour and a profusion of goods of almost every description. As I found out, it is run on the Harvey Norman model. And that in a town of less than 2,000 souls.
Going into the restaurant section, we found there was a queue to get in and soon the place was rather full! The cakes were outstanding and demolished in short order. The owner had a strong connection with England so John was her favourite. He is now in a position to write her family history! But she also was helpful with some information on finding the battlefield.
In Checotah the GPS could not help us further and the locals had heard of the place but had no idea where it was. There is a Walmart in the town so I thought that someone in there would know. A few more blanks so I am now heading for the customer service centre, but without much confidence. But right alongside was a branch of Peoples National Bank. As a banker myself, I know that bankers are helpful, resourceful and intelligent people. And what they do not know, they find out. The young lady behind the counter was all of the above and soon was writing down the address for me and we were on our way. Thank you, Megan.
I have said repeatedly that the Americans are excellent at preserving and interpreting their history. Here at this important battlefield I find there are exceptions, this being one of them. Apart from being very poorly signposted, it is poorly marked, not memorialised and the Visitor Centre is rudimentary. The badly corrugated gravel road would also deter some tourists. The volunteer at the Visitor Centre was new, and I knew more about the battle than she did. Consequently, the visit was a let down. I understand they have development plans, and the State and Federal governments should fulfil their responsibilities here.
The afternoon saw us shoot north to Tulsa where we were to spend a couple of nights with my old and very dear friends from South Africa, Terry and Martha Ann. We went out for dinner, along with their brother in law Ernest and it was a very pleasant time.
Tomorrow the men are going to college football in Oklahoma City. This will be good.
An Introduction to American Tribalism
14/09/2013
John and I had speculated about trying to attend a college football game while in Tulsa, and when in Fort Smith, AR, to our surprise and delight we received a message from our impending hosts to ask were we interested in just that! Absolutely!
Saturday 8.30 am we are in the car with Terry (bike free day. John was pleased) and on our way to Norman OK, the home of Oklahoma University just outside Oklahoma City. Due to road construction we missed the kick off but were only about ten minutes late.
College (university) football is big business. Games are televised nationally and internationally; and sponsorship and advertising dollars run into billions. Supporters are every bit as passionate as Australian Rules football or soccer fans.
As we approached the stadium we heard a mighty roar, the equal of the largest crowd at the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Touchdown!? We entered the stadium and surveyed a noisy, enthusiastic and very vocal crowd, mainly clothed in something red. This is the colour of the 'Sooners', or Oklahoma University (OU). They are one of the most successful teams in the competition and winners attract fans. They are a university of some 35,000 students.The name Sooners comes from the land rush that was authorised when the state of Oklahoma was opened to white settlement. The date and time was promulgated, but a whole lot of people left before then, sooner than the rest. The name has stuck.
Tulsa U is much smaller, and private, uni. Their supporters in the crowd were perhaps out numbered by their cheer squad, band and indeed football team! They are not very successful on the field, but are said to be the top petrochemical university in the USA.
This university stadium seats 86,000. And it was full. It is full for every game! That seems to be the case for every college football game. AFL, eat your heart out. The population of the state of Oklahoma is 3.8 million.
Soon after we took our very good seats, a decision of the referees against an OU player excited the crowd in disagreement. The noise was deafening. The replay confirmed the decision was flawed and the crowd turned from the TV replay as one, roaring in the direction of the referees. But, there was no bad language, there was no aggression. I had no feeling of hey, Bay 13 MCG. No one threw anything. It was tribal, but good tribal, if I can put it that way.
The review officials amended the decision in someway I did not understand and the crowd, vindicated, proceeded to support the rest of the game.
At the breaks, certain people are recognised. The women's rowing teams (crew) won their conference. Cheers! The parents of an OU alumni whose son has gone to Afghanistan were presented with a teeshirt in OU red which had PATRIOT printed on it. The crowd applauded loudly and the mum smiled and wept. The cheer leaders danced and smiled in the heat of the day. And I do not believe I have seen a better behaved crowd, anywhere, ever.
The game has four quarters and understanding the rules and then tactics is of course essential to enjoying spectating. There are frequent stoppages and restarts. Passing is limited to the quarterback arrowing the ball to a team mate and if it is not collected, it is 'incomplete'. They all go back and try again. Passing as in rugby is permitted - "laterals" - but it is very rare. Reason? They might drop the pass! We saw one instance where Tulsa had a three on one approaching the line. They could so easily have passed (lateralled?) and scored but did not and the ball carrier was tackled. Tulsa lost.
The game started at 11 and finished after three. An exciting spectacle in a great atmosphere. I didn't understand it but I did enjoy it.
After the game we went into Oklahoma City to run an errand with Terry and he arranged to meet the folk at the site of the Oklahoma bombing. We had (once again) not planned to visit Oklahoma City and this was an additional experience. The story is well known and I will not recount it, but the memorial is a profoundly sad and moving place. The deed of one man to take all those innocent lives must stink in the nostrils of heaven.
The trip back was tedious due to road construction and thus it was a long, but interesting and rewarding, day. A quick swim was followed by a delicious meal and a rather decent South African wine. We talked until late. It has been wonderful to catch up with my old friends Terry and Martha Ann, and also meet Ernest, their brother in law. Many blessings upon them.
By Popular Demand: Route 66
15/09/2013
We had a most excellent time with Terence and Martha Ann. We were close friends back in South Africa but then they moved to the USA and I moved to Australia. This was our first meeting in more than thirty years and in so many ways it seemed just like yesterday. Deo volente we will see each other more frequently from now on. Thank you again for your wonderful hospitality and of course the trip to the football!
I had hoped to attend church with Terence and Martha Ann but as it started only at 11am and our schedule required us to get some miles in today, that was not possible. We followed our usual practice of avoiding the interstate and thus we would be riding down the old Route 66 at least some of the way to the west of Oklahoma, notionally aiming for Clinton. I was not that taken with the idea of riding on Route 66 as I had been told that much of it has been replaced by four-lane and that which remained was unexciting. But when we saw our first marker, we stopped anyway and took the obligatory photo.
Having done that we dropped onto OK33 (half of 66 ha!) to avoid Oklahoma City and its traffic. This worked very well and we made good time. To our surprise, the towns of this byway are well served with places to eat, which was pleasing. Lunch break was called in Kingfisher, where we had our Toyota hamburgers: reliable and good, but bland! There was an impressive statue on a corner and I will have to research Jesse Chisholm later. The Methodist church building looked unusual to me so that gets shared on the photo page.
We passed through an undulating landscape of harvested wheat fields and a number of nodding donkeys, some of which were working, slowly pumping oil. We also passed by a very large wind farm. Contrary to what some may think, I am not opposed to wind generated power, although I will forever consider them ugly and an affront to nature and the aesthetic sensibilities of normal people. And let's not forget inefficient and uneconomical. What I am implacably opposed to are the taxpayer funded subsidies paid to the owners, operators and other stakeholders.
Arriving in Clinton was not a highlight of the day. We stopped for a break and quickly resolved to press on to Elk City. Much better! We may even have Chinese for dinner this evening. But I fear it may be deep fried!
Tomorrow we cross Texas, destination: New Mexico.
Juohn and I agreed this morning that, as far as Best Western's go, this one was pretty shoddy. Breakfast only confirmed it. We have a suspicion it is actually a Best Value Inn masquerading as a Best Western. We agreed we will never go there again.
The morning stop turned out to be at Granny's Home Cooking' establishment in Pampa, Texas. It was well patronised and we were quickly served our coffee and cake. We remarked to ourselves that the cakes were small by American standards and minute by those of Texas. On fronting the cash register to pay, I was asked for $2.00. My exclamation of surprise elicited the response that the coffee was $1.00 per cup. "What about the cake?" I ask. "Oh, that is free." OK. Small cake is totally acceptable if it is free!
I noticed as we left that one wall was covered with crucifixes. I asked about this to be told simply that Granny collects them.
Heading west we traveled alongside a railway line for quite a while, interested to see so many trains, and all of them very long. The number of oil derricks also attracted our attention.
Amarillo was not far down the road and we stopped just before noon to discuss our next move. Over a very decent meal, sitting next to a large store of good wines (and the wine list showed vintages!) we decided that we would make a side trip to the Palo Duro Canyon State Park, as John had not seen any great scenery thus far, it is the second largest canyon in North America and finally, we were unlikely to pass this way again.
We are glad we did it. It is impressive in scale and the features and colour contrasts are very attractive. The road goes down to the floor and along it, so it is quite an intimate experience. The main feature is the Lighthouse, but it is accessible only by a fairly strenuous hike. The visitor centre is excellent. John had spotted this (Palo Duro) in his LP Guide book and I think my friend Morris in Leesville LA had also mentioned it to me.
Leaving Palo Duro we had to retrace our path west and north back to Amarillo. All fine, except that there was this large rain storm between us and the road north. I stopped, changed to my rain gloves, told John 'we are going to get wet,' and got going. My prediction was proved correct within minutes. Fortunately the rain appeared to have shifted slightly south so we clipped the side of it and hence were indeed only wet and not soaked.
I want to mention my helmet, or more precisely the speaker system within it. The helmet is a Schuberth C3. They are not available in Australia so I imported it from Germany. The communicator is actually a Scala Rider G4 built into the detachable neck roll. It Bluetooths to a pillion, another rider, my GPS, my music, my phone and ebooks on the GPS. The communicator is however for the C3 Pro helmet, and that model incorporates an antenna which runs around the inside of the helmet.my Bluetooth reception was poor and sometimes very poor.
I called Schuberth North America a few weeks ago and asked if I could buy a separate antenna to retrofit my helmet. Well, they found an antenna for me, posted it to BMW Charlotte NC and did not charge me! Last night I found the time to install it and today I was zipping along hearing everything perfectly. Full marks for customer service to Phil of Schuberth North America.
Back to the ride, our time in the great state of Texas was very short, riding as we did across the panhandle of the north west. The rest of the ride to Tucumcari New Mexico was uneventful, although I was closely watching the position of two large rain storms to the south. The one was catching the sunlight and it looked spectacular. I hope to get one of John's photos.
In Tucumcari, K-Bob's seemed to be the place for dinner. The menu was plonked on the table and John's eyes lit up at the list of beers. Oops. New management. No license yet, so no beer nor wine. Sorry sirs. We won't be going back there, either!
New Mexico. Floods, Beautiful Vistas; and Route 66 just keeps Following
17/09/2013
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It has been raining heavily for days in Colorado and northern New Mexico. The news is full of lives lost and property damaged. Having been further south and west we have not been troubled by rain except once, yesterday, but that was isolated. Today as we were riding north from Tucumcari on NM104 we started to see evidence of the extensive rains, with red, red rivulets in spate and much pooling of surface water. Crossing the Conchas River, we noticed it had burst its banks comprehensively so we stopped to take some photos and have a break.
A chap came along to look at the river while we were there. He is a local and said that last week they had had nine inches of rain. The repeated warnings from my GPS satellite weather about flash floods and road closures suddenly became more meaningful. This chap also warned us to look out for fallen and indeed falling rocks as we traversed the pass on NM 104 up towards Las Vegas NM. Forewarned is forearmed. I have not ever seen so many fallen rocks alongside and indeed encroaching upon the roadway. There was one particular boulder that was actually on the road that we think must have fallen only minutes before we passed. We stopped on a pull-out spot to take a photo of the pass and noticed how very soft and sodden the earth was.
An interesting fact about this young Hispanic man is that he builds car wrecks as a hobby. When we saw him arrive in his jalopy we were stunned. They are apparently called 'rat rods' and the name fits! See the photo page. He assured us it was legal. Just brilliant!
We then enjoyed our easy ride on the high, grassy plain towards Las Vegas (no casinos there!). Eagles were patrolling the sky, some real cowboys were herding cattle and a couple of vultures reluctantly left their road kill to let us pass. The temperature was in the low twenties and there was no threat of rain. Few cars, and many of those that did come past gave a friendly wave.
Las Vegas NM is a small, historic town that for some reason in its early days attracted well known criminals and riff-raff. There is not much there these days to recommend it to the tourist. We ate lunch in Charlie's, which was clearly the place to be. We arrived early and easily got a table, by the time we left there were people hovering.
Arriving in Santa Fe we went to the city centre with a view to seeing if we could get reasonable accommodation there. John's initial impression of the city was 'it is delightfully commercial'. But expensive. We evacuated ourselves to the Best Western and will go back to the centre of town later, for dinner.
Coincidentally, the routes we have chosen have caused us to ride now and then on, or across, Route 66. Tulsa, Amarillo, Tucumcari, Las Vegas and now Santa Fe. I am rather pleased to say that very few Harley Davidson's have been sighted.
Our short experience in New Mexico suggests that the folk are more reserved with strangers than in the other states. But aside from that, the scenery is beautiful. Vistas of wide plains and rocky mesas abound. There is a sense of space and of place. I like it here.
Comments
Sabine Anders 19/09/2013 13:03
Even in Germany the news were full about the floods in Colorado:
http://www.t-online.de/nachrichten/panorama/katastrophen/id_65499110/im-us-bundesstaat-colorado-werden-nach-immensen-ueberschwemmungen-noch-hunderte-vermisst.html
New Mexico: State of Enchantment
18/09/2013
'State of Enchantment' is the slogan that appears on the number plates of New Mexican cars. It is apt, as this place has cast a spell on me. I am not sure I can really explain why. But let me try.
The country side is beautiful. The red soil sets off the green of the bushes and shrubs, there not being much grass in places of greater aridity. There are extensive plains with hills, mesas and mountains in the middle and far distance, giving the place an atmosphere of loneliness, or perhaps better, solitude. I feel the space, which is challenging: if the bike breaks down, the RACV is not anywhere near; yet the peace it brings to my soul is very deep.
Santa Fe is charming in the historic section, and even in the suburbs the town fathers have made the effort to extend the Spanish/Mexican style of construction to all buildings. Perhaps the prevalence of Hispanics also affects me, bringing their exotic language, culture and dark complexions into the mix?
Who knows why, but this is a place I want to visit again with Liz.
Last night John and I had dinner at a decent, Spanish style, restaurant. The menu was not extensive but the variety was good; and the wine list showed vintages! We ordered seafood paella to share and washed it down with a very acceptable bottle of Albariño, and enjoyed the repartee with our waitress. As we were waiting for our taxi back to the hotel, we spent those fifteen minutes watching some locals practicing their Argentinian Tango. They were very accomplished and it was a pleasure watching. El Mēsom every Tuesday evening, should you ever be there.
Today's ride was the High Road (NM76, then NM518) to Taos. There was a rather decent rain band over the route, but we reckoned that by the time we got to that point it would have moved to the east, which is what happened. Our morning coffee stop was at Alicia's Cafe, near Penasco. Regrettably her establishment is closing next week. We wish her and her family well for the future. The high road passes through a number of villages, some of which are clinging to the side of the mountain, 8,500 ft up! There were many pine trees and it is very pretty, with some great bends. A pity that a) the roads were wet b) I was two-up!
Taos (say Tah-oss) has a remarkable old adobe church which is very popular with artists for some reason. It is also dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. Popular guy in these parts. Warning: the road around the church and in the parking lot is DEEPLY potholed. And filled with water, you can't imagine just how deep! The Old Town reminded me a lot of Santa Fe, but that is not surprising, both being designed around a central plaza. As an aside, the northern outskirts of Santa Fe reminded me of Pretoria!!
On the outskirts of Taos is a pueblo which has been inhabited continuously for a thousand years. We did not stop there but it is a UNESCO site and should be interesting.
What we were really aiming for was the Rio Grande Bridge over the gorge. We raced the rain and got there in very overcast and windy weather, but it was worth it. It is rugged. It is deep. It is deeper than deep. It is awesome and spectacular and leaning over the guard rail of the bridge to take photos is quite an experience.
The weather looked ominous and as we were already at 7,500 feet and about 16 C, I thought getting wet was not wise. I therefore put in the liner of my jacket and was warm and dry, the latter principally being due to our great fortune in the road bypassing storms either side of us. We noticed at one point along the road that there were drifts of hail. How fortunate were we to have missed that?
The road towards Pagosa Springs Colorado was terrific: in quite good condition, with sweeping bends, lovely undulations and decent ascents and descents. We peaked at over 10,500 feet and had the roads not been wet we would have made slightly quicker time.
I was a little sad crossing the state line into Colorado. New Mexico is a state to be savoured at length.
A Quiet Day in Pagosa Springs, Colorado
19/09/2013
Today was scheduled as a bike free day to relax and perhaps do some walking in the area. John is the expert on all things to do with perambulation and he put in the requisite study last night to come up with a plan of (relaxed) action. This commenced with a late-ish breakfast followed by a stroll into the village to consult the rangers. I needed some tablets from the pharmacy which also led to sidewalk chat with a couple from somewhere while standing next to a particular hot spring feature. Quite hilarious! We then dropped in to a local bakery and ordered a couple of ham and swiss baguettes for lunch. A quick sticky beak around the local museum and we were back to the motel to prepare for our hike.
The trail head was just behind the motel and it zig-zagged up the hill between the pine trees to a cleared area with a view of the Continental Divide. This was a good excuse for a short rest. I realized that seven weeks sitting on a motorcycle is poor training for hiking up mountains. We followed a route, sort of, deciding where to go as we walked along. There were occasional views out of the forest over the town and valleys to the San Juan Mountains, altogether very pretty. It was pleasantly warm and the exercise felt good. We noticed a number of dead pines. This is apparently due to the pine beetle thriving in the dry conditions of recent years. Perhaps the more recent rain can reverse that trend. Neither was there much bird life in evidence.
We inspected the telecommunication towers on top of the hill and decided to have lunch. John found a tree stump and I a rock and we surveyed the town and valley below us, enjoying the dappled shade and the gentle breeze. Yes, we are actually on holiday.
Descending the hill we came across a small cleared area with a sign that suggested we were on a golf tee. It showed a diagram, stated the distance in feet and what par was. And, of course, the hole number. I thought it a joke. No fairways nor greens in sight. It did not even look like a golf course. Then there were these strange baskets with chains placed here and there. Very weird, we agreed. A little further on, all is explained by a board. Discgolf. For the uninitiated - like us - that means Frisbee golf.
Thus enlightened we proceeded down the road, to be met by a lady coming in the opposite direction, carrying two Frisbees. After exchanging pleasantries, she told us, with considerable enthusiasm, how the game worked. Did you know you could have a Driver Frisbee and a Putter Frisbee? Well, neither did we. Her friend appeared with his gear and after a brief chat they went to play their round and we headed back to town. Live and learn.
The afternoon was spent at leisure and in the evening we walked into the village for dinner. We were delightfully served in the wine bar by Whitney and Cameron and we were pleased to welcome Lavender to the conversation. It was a very pleasant evening, helped by the best wine list we have yet seen.
Pagosa Springs is hosting a hot air balloon event and other activities over the next few days and it is a pity to leave. Black Canyon of the Gunnison, here we come.
The Silver Thread Scenic Byway. (Pagosa Springs Co. to Gunnison Co.)
20/09/2013
Today dawned crisp and clear. As we walked into the village of Pagosa Springs for breakfast, we could see on the eastern horizon the San Juan Mountains silhouetted against the brilliant blue morning sky. In the foreground, a bank of fog was slowly drifting across the landscape. The grass was glistening with the heavy dew and the San Juan River rushed under the bridge. A stunning morning.
Breakfast done and the fog burnt away by the ascending sun, we donned our gear, now supplemented with liners, filled up with gas and made tracks towards South Fork Colorado, where we would turn north on Route 149, well known as the Silver Thread Scenic Byway.
On route there, we had to ascend Wolf's Creek Pass, which tops out just short of 11,000 feet. Just as I emerged from a very nice corner, I felt John's hand on my right shoulder, the agreed signal that he wanted to stop. I had been so concentrating on the corner I had been oblivious to the Treasure Falls. We turned around, made the stop and took our photos of this very pretty feature. Back on the pass I noticed from my GPS that there was a hairpin bend coming up. I surmised that there would be a turnout with a view and was not disappointed. Indeed, we were rewarded with a view that was clearly created in Heaven. Just beautiful. A little bonus was the number of tiny squirrels scampering around, inquisitive and quite unafraid.
We stopped a few times on the way to South Fork, marveling at the majestic scenery. This was to be the case for most of the ride.
The morning halt was called at South Fork, at Handlebar Donuts. I had bear claw. It was as large as a Rocky Mountain boulder with a calorie count to match. According to the proprietor, 2,500 of them critturs. Gulp! I determined that I would have salad for lunch.
The Americans have put great effort into identifying the most scenic routes across the country. These have been well documented and there are a number of websites that provide the traveler with all kinds of information about them. The roads are usually sealed and always worth traveling. They can be slow and are often indirect. They are not for people in a hurry. Many highlights of this trip have come from riding the Scenic Byways of America.
And so to Route 149, Silver Thread. For many miles the road travels alongside the Rio Grande, which is, after the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, the third longest river in the USA. It varies between rushing through narrow valleys and cutting slow meanders in the plains between the mountains.The road rises steeply, in some places carved into the side of the mountain, and plunges into valleys the other side. There were many turn outs and pull offs affording spectacles that the visitor never tires of, with a variety of hills and dales, peaks and pastures. Not to be omitted from mention are the many sweeping bends to delight the motorcyclist!
At one viewpoint we took in Red Mountain, Mount Uncompahgre and the site of the huge Slumgullion landslip! And as we were leaving, John spotted two very large military aircraft flying in formation high above us. Perhaps Starlifters. At many places we saw the aspen trees beginning to turn gold with the approach of Autumn, but sadly also observed the many thousands of dead trees that have infested with the pine beetle, especially going up the nearly 12,000 foot Slumgullion pass.
Our lunch break was taken in Lake City. There were many fine old houses and other buildings which seem to be in excellent repair.
Today's ride was three and a quarter hours, so a little shorter than 'standard' but the beauty was so engrossing we barely noticed the time go by. Please have a look at the photos page. My words are inadequate to describe what we saw.
You First Heard of it Here. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison
21/09/2013
The plan for today was to visit the Black Canyon. I had not heard of it until I found it on the internet when sorting the itinerary and John heard about it from me. We have both had people saying, visit the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon (check!) Zion etc etc, but no one had ever mentioned the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. But here we were and we were going!
It was chilly when we left at 9.00 am and we were thankful for our linings. Marveling once again at the crisp, blue, morning sky, I enjoyed the bends as we headed west for the Blue Mesa Dam where we would cross to the north bank of the Gunnison River. I had been warned about the twisty road, but my expectations were pleasantly exceeded. If the Black Canyon is not very busy on the main, south side, it is even less so on the north, hence there was little traffic to worry about. Lovely! The road was quite high, and there were a few magnificent views which we stopped to admire. The expansiveness, the massiveness of the views is almost overwhelming.
The small town of Crawford is a few miles beyond the turn off to the north rim of the canyon and we popped in there for an early lunch as there are no catering facilities within the National Park. Also in the diner was a group of men who were clearly hunters. Their clothing variously reflected membership of the National Rifle Association and their support for the Second Amendment. I feel right at home in the South and Midwest, but the diet is getting to me a bit. And it is definitely getting to my waistline!
Lunch over, we retraced our route to the north rim turnoff and had about six miles of gravel road to traverse at the end. The bike handled it with aplomb but I must concede the road was in good condition. Parking the bike, it was only a short walk through the sage brush, Utah Junipers and Piñon Pines to the first view point. As we emerged from the trees, my first word was 'wow!', a word I repeated numerous times while we stood there. In front of us was the Painted Wall, rising nearly two thousand feet from the canyon floor with thick bands of pink granite flowing diagonally across the face. The south rim is less than a thousand feet away on the other side, atop a vertical drop of similar magnitude. John and I struggled for words to describe the immensity of what we were looking at. Raw power, majestic, immense, brutal. As we walked away from it to the next viewing point, I felt quite emotional about what an experience it was. As I was to read later, this is not unusual.
We then decided that we should take in the South Rim where the visitor centre is located, not the least because that was the place for me to obtain my National Park sticker. Rather than going back via Blue Mesa, we would go via Hotchkiss, Delta and Montrose. A little sense of de jā vu there, as Liz and I had traveled the other way about six weeks earlier. Off we went, stopping briefly in Delta for the afternoon break and snack with coffee.
When at the south entrance to the Park the ranger said we could take the road to the floor of the canyon. This was very steep, very narrow and very windy. A good place for mountain goats. The views were of course very impressive and gave us a very different perspective.
Comments
Liz 22/09/2013 19:15
Love, we need a STUNNING scenery photo with the bike as centre piece for the cover of the photo album.
There might be one in the over 1,000 photos we have of the first four weeks, or in those you have taken since, but this should please be on your priority list for the final two weeks please.
Your photos are stunning!!
Reply
Chris Eckert 23/09/2013 15:20
Black canyon looks stunning. :)
The Mile-High City. (Gunnison, Co. to Denver Co.)
22/09/2013
I cleaned my bike yesterday and predicted it would rain today. Too easy a prophesy. The weather forecast concurred and we resolved that an early start the next morning should assist in achieving the objective of staying dry. The weather was coming from the south west and we were heading east and north.
Up with the sparrows, we observed very dark clouds heading our way. The Special Advisory spoke about snow and hail and our plans for breakfast in Gunnison were quickly abandoned in favour of an immediate departure and a stop in Salida Colorado. While putting on helmets and gloves the rain started falling and with the rising sun in our eyes and a storm coming down our backs, we hightailed it out of the town.
We quickly made clear weather but as the road bent somewhat south, we had to keep a close eye on a very black storm a couple of miles to our right. The road eventually straightened to the east and we had some good bends ascending and descending the Monarch Pass before arriving at Salida where we enjoyed a cooked breakfast.
Remembering the ride from Mono Ontario to Scranton Pennsylvania some four weeks earlier, we did not dally over breakfast and proceeded smartly up Co. 291, all the while glancing ahead and to our left. As good fortune would have it, every time we thought we were in for a soaking, the road bent away.
The road was very busy, and we assumed folk were cutting their weekends short to head home because of the weather. Overtaking queues of traffic is so much easier on a powerful bike.
Thus we arrived at our hotel in Denver in good time. We find our washing, did some research on things to do and walked to the light rail, the RTD, to ride to downtown. The RTD cost $4.00 each way. It is modern and clean and an easy ride. From the terminus at Union Station there are many free shuttle buses that take passengers up and down the 16th Street Mall. It is very pretty, with many shops and restaurants set off by a treed median where people sit on chairs and survey the passing parade. The only traffic permitted are the free buses, horse drawn cabs and bicycles. A feature is the pianos placed here and there on which the public are invited to play. It is long and, even on a Sunday, busy.
John and I had a decent dinner, walked back to the station and the light rail was taking us back to our station. Umm, not quite. In between stations the lights flicker and fail and we glide to a halt. Power failure. It lasted the best part of ninety minutes.
With decent WiFi at the hotel, I have been uploading photos from the past couple of days. I will write more on Denver tomorrow and upload more photos.
An introduction to American Tribalism (Continued) (Denver, Co.)
23/09/2013
1 Comment
Today was meant to be a quiet day and to the extent that bike riding was minimal, that was so. We took a short spin to the post office to post John's bike gear back to Australia and I ran a quick errand to a shopping centre not far away. John took himself off to the transport museum and I otherwise vegged in the hotel.
I had arranged to meet John at the light rail station at five pm for a walk around before he kindly sponsored dinner on this, his final night. I duly repaired to the station in good time and noticed many other passengers, and all but a very few were wearing orange. I quickly learned that there was a football game about to happen and orange is the color if the Denver Broncos. Here and there one espied dressed in charcoal, a lonely supporter of the opposition, the Oakland Raiders.
Before long the train was packed. And at each station it was packed some more until the driver stopped allowing any more passengers to board. Despite everyone's personal space being well and truly violated, there was no evidence of stress or anxiety. People chatted quietly, men offered their seats to women and behaviour was excellent. Notwithstanding, it was a relief when they disembarked. I was one of three people remaining in my carriage.
I met John and we walked to LoDo (Lower Downtown), looking in shops and stopping for a drink in a bar, whereafter we found a restaurant for dinner. Albeit a little upmarket, there were TV sets at one end, tuned to the Broncos - Raiders game. The photo above shows a couple near us who were very keen to keep abreast of the score!!
Returning to the hotel on the light rail was a reprise of my earlier trip to the city, everyone in a good humour and despite the crowds, no stress.
So John has packed and he has his two alarms set for 5.00am and he aims to catch the airport bus at 6.00 to catch his flight to Los Angeles and then London. The evenings will be so much quieter without his company and I will miss the weather forecast every morning. Bon voyage, John.
Comments
John Habgood 24/09/2013 13:49
Duncan, just killing time at LAX but I have to tell you the flight from Denver was spectacular. A beautiful morning as you know, but perhaps you wouldn't have realized how much snow there was after Sunday's storm. Just glad we hightailed it when we did. Hope you don't run into too much of this over the next two weeks. Also just wanted to say again how much I enjoyed the last two weeks with you. Really appreciate it, thank you. Take care and keep the black side downside, John
There's Snow in Them Thar Hills! (Denver, Co to Leadville, Co)
24/09/2013
John's alarm went off at five am, but as is so often the case, one always sleeps fitfully the night before a trip, so we were both awake. He left in plenty of time to get to the airport bus and some of you may have noticed his comment on the blog indicating he made it safely to Los Angeles.
Because I intended to visit BMW Motorcycles Denver and they only opened at nine, I dawdled in getting ready and enjoyed the unusual time of leisure, using it to look ahead for accommodation. I also spent quite some time looking at the weather forecasts and trying to figure out potential routes back to Portland. The weather we had fled from in Gunnison had dropped snow on the mountains down to about ten thousand feet, but later this week it may get down to six thousand feet, and lie up to twenty four inches deep 'if the storm sets right', as the special advisories say.
Without having made a decision I went down to BMW to acquire a few small items I needed. They need a lesson in customer service, those guys in Spares. So I took my things and headed for the hills. Well, mountains. And what a sight greeted me as I swung west. The range was beautifully powdered with the snow of Sunday, rising majestically along the horizon. Taking the byways to Leadville was a distance of over 170 miles so I stuck with the interstate until twenty miles to go, stopping in Georgetown for a break and Lake Dillon for lunch. (Fantastic mushroom and cheese burger).
One thing that Colorado seems to have plenty of is historic steam trains. Durango, Georgetown, Chama and there is one in Leadville, too. And there are more. I am told that Chama is out of this world.
And so off the interstate for the last twenty miles to Leadville, with the roads sweeping around the mountain bends, with snow everywhere above 10,000 feet. Magical! I checked in to the motel and rested, trying to make up for the night before.
I roused myself to go into the town (very pretty) to have dinner. It was 14 C when I left at 6.30 pm and when I returned a little over an hour later it was down to 7C. Overnight forecast is for zero!
Tomorrow I will ride Independence Pass (12,095 feet) and then probably be compelled to make a decision on which way to go to Portland. Watch this space.
Colorado in Autumn. Oh, the Splendour! (Leadville, Co to Grand Junction, Co)
25/09/2013
2 Comments
The morning dawned bright and clear in Leadville, Colorado. And freezing. It was sub-zero overnight and when I went out to the bike it was only 4C and there was frost on the bike cover. As I was loading the bike some other BMW riders emerged from the motel and we had quite a long chat about things. They had come over Independence Pass the day before and gave me some useful advice, such as warning me that on the Aspen side the road was essentially just one car wide in many places. The chap who was the natural leader, Karl B, has a really interesting job: he makes rocket engines for people who fly to the edge of space as a hobby. Actually!!! His company has an association with an Australian outfit and I am recording it here so I can research it later. Www.ausrocketry.com.au. Morris M in Leesville, you should meet this chap.
After mutual well wishes I went back into Leadville to take some photos. There are many old buildings, houses and churches which are very attractive. An aspect of the houses that seems unique to Leadville is the colourful and often quite intricate colour schemes that are favoured. They also have a large mining museum and Hall of Fame, housed in a magnificent old residence, it looks like. Really huge. I was also impressed that the residents all have in their backyard a panoramic view of the Rockies, with Mount Elbert as the most prominent feature. They are now snow-capped and just beautiful.
On with the main business of the day: riding over Independence Pass. One never tires of riding through the Rockies and its foothills. Be they green or arid, there is always something to please the eye or amaze the mind, often both simultaneously. Today was no different. I have been encouraged to take the iconic photo of the bike within the American landscape, which will be the cover of the intended photo album. The photo above may fit the bill. It is one of the most stunning views of the trip. The cars on the road were just about queued up to take photos.
The ride to the top of the pass is marked by a gradual ascent initially and then suddenly, up you go. There are several extra slow speed hairpins and few turnouts. The top has a short walk to a viewing point, where a Hollander, Aernoud, wearing shorts in the freezing weather, asked me to take a photo of him and his wife. We had a bit of a chat and he seemed very decent. He is obviously very tough. It was icy up there, literally!
I took the obligatory shot of the bike under the sign indicating the name of the pass, the elevation and the fact that it is the Continental Divide. A few other folk seemed quite impressed and took photos of the bike as well. One kind chap offered to take a shot of me with the bike and the iPhone was used for that. It has been posted on my Facebook.
Down the other side and yep, seriously narrow road. Many trees were fallen from the rocks that had been dislodged by the recent wet weather. I took it slowly as snow melt was on the road down to about 9,000 feet, but soon I was riding into Aspen.
This is a really pretty place, but here in a tiny town one finds designer clothing stores! The Hollywood crowd have clearly made this pretty town their own. Lunch was really pleasant but a little pricey. Still, sitting under an umbrella in the autumn sun was very pleasant.
Pressing on, I eventually hit the road from Carbondale to Glenwood Springs, which I had also traveled earlier with Liz. I happened to look over my left shoulder as I approached Carbondale and noticed snow-capped Mount Sopris standing like a remote guardian over the town. Very pretty. But as I rode into Glenwood Springs I felt a surge of nostalgia, remembering how not all that long ago Liz had been with me on that very road.
Getting to Grand Junction, my stopping place for the night, was either on I70 for a distance of about 68 miles, or on the byways for more than twice that. An easy decision. It is a very picturesque drive for an interstate, but today I had to battle cross winds gusting up to 50mph. To manage it better, I would tuck myself in behind a big truck.
Grand Junction is named for the confluence of the Colorado and Gunnison rivers. On my brief look at downtown it is a really attractive place. I will take some photos in the morning.
The big issue now is the weather. Thursday and Friday are lining up with snow storms and many roads will be closed, perhaps into next week. I will need to decide, perhaps as early as tomorrow, whether to turn north, or head west.
Comments
Liz 25/09/2013 21:32
My suggestion - a few days ago: head west and then north along the coast. Keep safe xx
Uncertainty and Opportunity (Grand Junction, Co to Vernal, Ut)
26/09/2013
For several days now I have been contemplating my route back to Portland Oregon from Denver. While a notional route had been set out months before the trip, talking to people had brought a number of other possibilities to my attention. Principal among them were Independence Pass in Colorado, which I did yesterday; and the Bear Tooth Highway which runs from Red Lodge Montana to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming.
The former ride was easy to include, as the start is less than three hours west of Denver and the road heads north west, the direction I need to go. The latter requires me to proceed north, and then ride the highway east to west, just what the doctor ordered. But....... it decided it had to start snowing! Now rain and wet roads are not ideal, but ice and slush, especially on two wheels, is just a no-no. So I discard the idea and start contemplating other options, like across Nevada to California and up, taking in Yosemite, perhaps, and variations on the theme. But I really want to do Bear Tooth. I may never get the chance again. The forecasts are for snow Thursday and Friday and fining up for days after that. I speculate that I can hedge my bets by heading north and west to a location where I could wait a day or two and then execute either Bear Tooth or Nevada/California as required. The weather app on my phone and tablet were thrashed several times a day as I kept an eye on the forecasts and I loaded new locations on other possible routes. As the weather changed so did my plan, such as it was. There is a rather crude expression about the eventual need to take action but this is a family blog. So to be polite, this morning over breakfast I made up my mind. North and west it would be, but first I would take the opportunity to see something else.
Now that the bike is getting sort of run-in and I am traveling solo, my fuel consumption is improving nicely. Two up and fully loaded I was averaging 5.2 l/100km, which is not too shabby, considering the bike was not designed with aerodynamic efficiency in mind. I was pleased when filling up this morning to note that my average is now 4.9l/100km. And on that positive note I promenaded down the main street of Grand Junction for the last time, taking a few photos; and then made my way to the Colorado National Monument which is very close to the town.
The Colorado National Monument is an area of mesas and canyons. It was put on the map - almost literally - by a chap called John Otto, one of the early explorers of the site. It became his passion to promote, preserve and protect the area and his determination was rewarded when the Monument was declared in 1911. He was offered the job of caretaker at a salary of $1.00 per month. He was quite content, apparently. His memory is perpetuated by a handsome statue of him on his horse with his dog, in the main street.
There are a good number of viewing points and many hiking trails. Rock climbing is permitted and the Independence Monument, a red sandstone pillar 450 feet tall, is very popular. There are also three tunnels on the road, hewn through the solid rock.
This is a pleasant place with some lovely views, but I think hikers and rock climbers get more from it than do the casual tourists like me. I hope I haven't undersold it.
Back to town to purchase a few small items at Walmart where I also got my lunch which I ate on the footpath outside. Remembering a similar occasion in Iowa and missing someone.
Midday and time to go! GPS set for Rangely, Colorado because I wanted to do Co 139, a scenic route which also took me over the Douglas Pass. This part of Colorado is decidedly arid. The mountains are heavily eroded, with classic hoodoo type shapes down their slopes. In many places there was barely a tree in sight. A stark beauty. There are more trees going up the pass, perhaps as a result of relief rainfall? It was impressive, but compared to the other things I have seen, not grand. But nevertheless, worth it. This road, however, was in rather poor condition for much of its length. In places it was dangerous for motorcyclists.
On arriving in Rangely I stopped for coffee and a consultation with my Map, my weather app and myself. Conclusion: overnight in Vernal, Utah. From here I can strike north through Rock Springs and Lander Wyoming to Cody and then Red Lodge Montana for Bear Tooth. Assuming the snow is clearing sufficiently. Otherwise, the I 80 will take me west.
The ride to Vernal was interesting, as yet again I rode between two weather events, the one to the north being snow. Grand Junction was 27 C when I arrived yesterday and 23C when I left at noon today. As I proceeded to Vernal the temperature dropped steadily to 15C.
So here I am in Vernal. Tomorrow is another day. It is uncertain what it will bring, but it will certainly bring opportunity.
Today, No Movement at the Station (Vernal, Ut)
27/09/2013
This morning I woke up, resolved to ride to Rock Springs Wyoming, to stay the night and await the expected improvement in the weather. On my way to breakfast two of the ladies that work here said I should not miss the Flaming Gorge Dam, halfway to Rock Springs. It sounded good to me, but it was overcast and raining, making good photos very difficult. It wasn't too hard to decide to change my mind and stay put for another night. After lunch I emerged from my room and ventured into the town. As I rode in, I saw these low clouds over the mountains, as pictured above; and felt that I had made the correct decision to stay another night. The various weather reports for towns along my intended route supported it, too.
My first visit was the the small, but very interesting, Western Heritage Museum. It covers a lot of ground and is well worth a visit. I particularly liked the sequential photos of every sheriff the town has had, and the dolls of each first lady of the USA.
A coffee shop on the nearby main street was recommended to me and while my order was being prepared I took a short walk. It turns out that in its early days, Vernal was the stomping ground of many outlaws, some extremely notorious eg Butch Cassidy. And - not dissimilar to Australia - they promote it! But otherwise, not much goes on in Vernal, Utah. It is really a service town for the oil industry.
After a latte (too milky) and a rather tasty almond and poppy seed muffin, I was wending my way back to the hotel on a side street when I noticed ahead a very tall church steeple. Being Utah, this is Mormon country, and I had read that in Vernal they have, unusually for a small place, a Mormon Temple.
Then I went to the CAL Ranch store. I am thinking of buying some cowboy chaps which I can wear over my jeans for summer riding. No joy here, but it is my kind of store. See the photo and you will understand why!
Back to the hotel as it was looking very gray and threatening and I did not think I would be happy if I got wet and cold.
A word about the hotel, the Weston Plaza. It is an older property, but under a new name and management and it does not seem to be part of a national chain. The room is very spacious and comfortable, clean as a whistle, staff that cannot do enough for one and.... cheaper than the standard I judge by, Best Western.
The Australian Rules Football Grand Final is to be played in a few hours. Maybe I can find it on the cable TV. But the forecasts up north are looking promising and I will make an early start, planning on stopping tomorrow night in Lander, Wyoming.
An Act of Faith. Welcome (back) to Wyoming. (Vernal Ut to Riverton Wy)
28/09/2013
In Vernal the day dawned bright and clear, but pretty cold, only 4C, it having been below zero overnight. The forecasts for the towns on the way to Montana were showing no precipitation although some wind was expected. Bear Tooth Highway was still showing on the highway information site as closed but I reckon it will reopen by Monday. Putting my faith in the forecasts and my assessment of what will happen, I decided I would proceed north. I would like to mention once more the really good experience I had at the Weston Plaza Hotel. It is family owned and run and it is clear that they care and take pride in their offering.
As I rode out of Vernal, I was very happy to see the sky over the mountains was clear, compared to the lowering clouds that had been present the day before. Soon the road started rising and the temperature started dropping. As it hit 2C the display in my instrument binnacle started flashing, warning of the potential for ice on the road. I slowed down and took it easier on the bends, and slowed again when it dropped further to freezing point. Urrrr.... A bit dicey, but also I was getting seriously cold.
However, the road then descended to the Flaming Gorge Dam, which is a National Recreation Area; and it became warmer. Hydro electricity is also generated. I had heard while in Vernal that the Sheep Creek Geological Loop offered great scenery and would be very quiet. Both these statements proved correct. With much snow at the higher altitudes and being much warmer lower down, the contrast in vegetation was remarkable .The loop is situated in the Uinta Range, the only range in the USA which runs east-west, and where one can see evidence of the Uinta fault. There are also several different types of rock which must be of interest to some people. Leaving the Loop and Flaming Gorge, I had to go some distance out of my way. That took me through miles of rock formations, each of which had fossils of varying types. Again, of interest to others.
A quick Mexican lunch in Rock Springs helped me warm up a bit after which I was again heading North. The wind was blowing strongly and was annoying, not just because it affected the handling of the bike, but because it was cold! At Farson the road branched off to Lander, but there was a diner/shop right there so I stopped for coffee and also put on a long sleeve merino under layer and the neck warmer that Liz insisted on leaving with me. Was I grateful??
When getting ready to leave, a few folk emerged from the diner and proceeded to tell me it was 32F on South Pass with snow blowing across the road. Now a little anxious, I proceeded up towards the pass with caution. Well, either they lied, or things had drastically improved. Apart from the stiff cross-wind, there was nothing to worry about.
On today's ride I was continually entranced and impressed by the scenery. The rock formations both as to colour and complexity were one thing, but the presence of the snow added a different dimension of beauty. Northern Utah and southern Wyoming are desert, receiving less than eleven inches of moisture per annum, so much of it is treeless. Where there were trees, eg near the Flaming Gorge, it was quite a spectacle to ride along and see the snow falling from the branches.
Having made reasonable time despite the number of stops, I reached Lander at about 4pm and so, after coffee and an apple cobbler, decided to push on to Riverton. In the morning I will once again review the status of Bear Tooth Highway but will regardless continue north. It needs to be open by Tuesday
Faith is, and Perhaps isn't, Enough. (Riverton, Wy. to Red Lodge, Mt.)
29/09/2013
8 Comments
It is Sunday. I have not been to church since Pennsylvania and I want to go. Doctor Google informs me that the local Presbyterian Church is PC(USA) so I pass. Liz grew up a Lutheran and we attend that church from time to time so the local Lutheran Church got my vote.
The folk were welcoming and friendly and the service was uplifting. It is a good thing to affirm one's faith by fellowshiping with other believers. After a chat over a cup of coffee I hit the road.
Contrary to yesterday, it was quite balmy with the temperature rising during the day to 21.5 C. But the wind! There were occasions when I was seriously discomfited by the gusts and I did a lot of leaning while riding in a straight line. I passed through Shoshoni and Thermopolis and continued to Meeteetse for my lunch stop; and decided to give my custom to the Cowboy Bar Established 1873. The lady bartender was a tough looking character, carrying a great big knife on her hip. After lunch I asked her about it and she proudly showed it to me. It was a gift from her husband on their twentieth wedding anniversary. She informed me that she carried .44 revolver and under the bar had a billy club and a taser. Apparently it gets quite rough in there at times. She also pointed out bullet holes in the wall and ceiling. Her name was Panama Red and I treated her with extra respect!
I thought that having had a chicken salad for lunch I could afford a dessert and went over the road to a rather nice chocolate shop. At $1.75 it was an expensive mouthful.
I went through Cody, Wyoming. Tourist trap.
On the turn off to Red Lodge I noticed some derelict buildings. It was the site of the Smith Mine, which closed in 1943 after Montana's worst ever mining disaster. 74 dead and three survivors. The buildings remain, abandoned, as a memorial to them.
Soon I was in Red Lodge Montana and having my expectations of riding the Beartooth Highway dampened by the receptionist at the hotel. Perhaps my faith, expressed by riding two days from Utah to Montana, was not enough. This may become clearer tomorrow morning. A possible alternative is the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, but it involves me retracing my path a fair distance.
Red Lodge is very pretty and very rural. I found a deer wandering the streets.
Dinner at the Pollard Hotel was really interesting as I had a long discussion with some local folk, which was great fun. I am sorry I didn't get their names, except for Emma, the bartender. Smart, smart girl!
Comments
Charles 30/09/2013 01:21 Long time no comment, but I keep reading your blog. Some amazing photos in there Duncan. What a beautiful country it is.
Reply Duncan 01/10/2013 05:50
Hi Charles
No need to apologise. Indeed, thank you for the comments you have made; and you interest in the trip. Liz has already started sorting photos for the album and I am sure you will get to see it when next you are in Melbourne.
Reply HeinrichVoges link 30/09/2013 05:12
USA seem not only to be New York and Los Angeles etc, but also full of beautiful country sides. It is a pity that I am not a bit younger - and then with Hanna.
Thanks for thew good marks you gave my Lutheran brethren - and sisters.
Take care
Heinrich
Reply Duncan 01/10/2013 05:59
Hello Heinrich
Thank you for this and the other comments you have made during the course of the trip. Your interest and prayers - and those of many others - have been greatly appreciated.
Reply Karyn Ervin 30/09/2013 12:32
We enjoyed visiting with you at St. John Lutheran Church in Riverton, WY. I mentioned your visit to my husband (the Goldwinger) and he said he had noticed you on your bike in Riverton earlier. Bikers notice others in the brethren! Have a safe trip home. and come to see us at St. John if you travel through Riverton again.
Reply Duncan 01/10/2013 06:03
Hi Karen
It was a privilege to be welcomed at St John's on Sunday and to enjoy the fellowship over coffee afterwards. If ever we are again in Riverton, we will most certainly visit.
Reply Aernoud Jalink link 30/09/2013 14:43
Duncan, we met on the Indepence-pass last week. I saw your site, realy wonderful. hope you will have a good stay in the USA. regards. Aernoud Jalink, the Netherlands
Reply Duncan 01/10/2013 06:08
Goede Dag, Aernoud
Thank you for your comment. It was a pleasure having a short chat with you at Independence Pass. I hope the photos I took of you and your wife were useable. Apart from the glare on the screen, that wind was really cold !
If you ever make it to Melbourne, please contact me mcduncan@bigpond.net.au
The Long Way Around. (Red Lodge Mt. to Livingston Mt)
30/09/2013
This morning the lady on the front desk confirmed to me that Beartooth was closed and that Chief Joseph was open. Definitely a bad news, good news story, although as previously mentioned, Chief Joseph required me to retrace my path back to Wyoming. Still, I had heard good reports about that route and the mission was on!
But first, breakfast, post office and petrol. I ordered a cappuccino and was presented with a mug that was 90% froth. My Facebook friends got to see that. Not good. The post office (three postcards on the way, Schatz) and petrol were routine and I then reversed my course of the previous day. It turned out to be just on 76 kilometres. I was quite thankful for the bright sunshine of the lower elevations east of the mountains, as the mountains themselves were enveloped in angry looking clouds. As per yesterday, the cross wind was still present and some gusts were very disconcerting, so I traveled at a sedate 55 mph. As the speed limit on Montana country roads is 70, I was overtaken often.
After the turn off to Chief Joseph,WY 296, the road was soon climbing through a number of switchbacks, as I have learned to call them (hairpin bends for everyone else) and there were a number of scenic turnouts. The route is beautiful. What a pity it became darker and overcast as I ascended. The photos are rather dark and I hope to manipulate them when I get home. It was a terrific ride albeit slower than I would usually go because the road was wet in places.
Chief Joseph was a leader of the Nez Perce Indians at the time of the war between them and the US government. The issue was, as usual, that the US had reneged on the terms of two treaties . Chief Joseph eventually tried to flee to Canada via Yellowstone, and this road follows the route he took his people. I may be able to visit the Big Hole National Battlefield tomorrow, where the great battle was fought which precipitated that event.
The Byway ends in a T junction with..... the Beartooth Highway! Now the GPS had let me know that Beartooth was closed, but it got it wrong by seventeen miles! I saw that there was a sign saying that, so I decided that I would do at least some of Beartooth, seeing as I was there. It was brilliant, although very cold, with my thermometer flashing at me 2.5 C, 1.5C, 0C! I proceeded cautiously and stopped for a few photos. Again, a pity they are so dark. I went down to Bear Lake on the dirt road, which was wet. All was well until I noticed some lighter coloured mud.... Yikes! Ice! The bike lurched and slid but, with thumping heart, I managed to keep it upright and on the road. I took my photos and then gingerly went up the road again.
There were no cars because the road was closed to through traffic and there was just the odd Parks vehicle around and they all ignored me.
About fifteen miles down the road from the intersection of Chief Joseph and Beartooth was Cooke City, Montana. It was 1.30 pm and time for lunch. As I dismounted it started sleeting heavily and did not stop. After I had eaten I quickly consulted my weather app and saw that snow was forecast in two hours. I had no intention of being stuck in Cooke City so I togged up, knocked the accumulated ice off my saddle and got going, notional destination Gardiner, Montana, which is a small town situated about five miles north of Yellowstone's northern entrance.
This road actually passes through the park and by the time I arrived at the North Eastern entrance my gloves and everything else were soaked. The lady ranger very kindly heeded my suggestion that I not be required to produce my annual pass. The handgrip heaters were the only reason I could keep riding, but I had pretty well decided that I would stop in Gardiner whatever the cost of a room. There was snow and slush on the road and, with my gear soaked (my skin was dry because of the waterproof liners) I was freezing. And what I feared was the clouds of snow descending and causing a whiteout, which would a) force me to stop and b) make me vulnerable to being hit by the car that decided to keep driving despite the whiteout. One thing that struck me as I was proceeding through the park at a velocity somewhat in excess of the speed limit, was the smell of sulphur dioxide from the geysers!
At the northern end of the park, Mammoth Springs, the road descends rapidly and then levels out on its way to Gardiner. As it descended, it got warmer. Soon it was a balmy 5C! Nevertheless, I pulled into the Best Western, but when I could not get them to charge an acceptable price, I decided, hang them, it's warm, I'm going to Livingston, just an hour up the road.
It was not raining in the valley and soon I was drying out a and making good time. The Best Western here in Livingston is $55 cheaper and they have even given me a garage for the bike!
Where to tomorrow? I'm not sure yet. All I I know is, it must be west from Livingston, Montana. The clock is winding down. The trip is in its last days.
A Long and, Sometimes; Winding Road (Livingston Mt to Ritzville Wa)
01/10/2013
1 Comment
No photo today. On the occasions I wanted to take one, it was raining.
It dawned on me yesterday that I am running short of time. My flight to Australia leaves LAX about midday on Wednesday so I need to be there by Tuesday evening. Before I leave Portland I must clean the bike to keep Australian Quarantine happy, crate the bike and arrange for it to be shipped home. It would also be good to have the bike serviced, as it is cheaper here,
What happened to my spare days? The problem was the second night in Denver and the second night in Vernal Utah. The latter was because of the weather and thus wise, but Denver was pure indulgence on my part.
I had intended to take three and a bit days to get to Portland but late last night decided to scrap that and get there as soon as possible. That resulted in an earlier start and I hit the I90 W shortly after 7.30 am with Spokane Washington as my objective for the day. In the parking garage it was 18.5 C and I was getting toasty in my full riding gear, but on the interstate the thermometer dropped and dropped and kept dropping. It kind of levelled out at three degrees and yes, it was fresh! And traveling at 75/80 mph really enhances said freshness! But wait, there's more! As I approached Bozeman Montana the temperature began to drop again. I was concerned about ice of course, so was concentrating very heavily on the bends. I actually thought it was then warming back up a little, until I noticed some additional information on the screen. There was a minus sign preceding the numerals. It dropped as low as minus 2.5C, which quite impressed me, but not in a good way.
Eventually the mercury rose above freezing but it never got above 4C. I decided at Butte to stop and get warm with a second, proper breakfast, a wise move. Refreshed, back on the road and lunch was called in Missoula Montana. With the uni students back in town, the atmosphere was quite pleasant and as I was getting ready to leave a couple of old timers came over to talk about the bike. But the purpose of the day was laying down miles and I did not tarry . I pulled into Wallace Idaho briefly for a pit stop. A very quaint place but it was raining, so no photo. The next refreshment stop was Coeur D'Alene Idaho, also very pretty, also raining. I was tempted to overnight there but was put off by the expense and stuck with plan A to go to Spokane. But when I got there I decided it was not a pleasant place and decided to strike out to Ritzville, sixty miles further,
You may have worked out that I am not fond of interstate riding because it is usually uninteresting and straight. However, this section of the I90 had many satisfying, winding stretches and it was an enjoyable time of high speed touring.
As I rode those last twenty miles, heading south west, the sun was slowly setting. I felt a little melancholy, drawing an analogy with the sun setting on my trip. Tomorrow or early Thursday I will reach Portland and the episode, the chapter, will end.
I had dinner at the town pub and the locals keep to themselves here. But again the old town is pretty and, if it is dry tomorrow, I will go and take some photos before I leave.
Comments
Heinrich Voges link 02/10/2013 04:45
Hi Duncan, I hope you arrived by now safely in Portland.. I did not know that winter can start so early in the Rocky Mountains. Or has this to do with 'climate change'? I am not a 'Greene'. But we have as Christians to use the resources of creation responsibly.
Enjoy your trip home and embrace your wife, Elisabeth.
Heinrich
USA on a GSA - Check!
03/10/2013
5 Comments
Shaliach Mitzvah is a Jewish tradition in which a traveler is given a gift of money which is to be donated to charity at the end of the journey. As the journey is thus a sacred mission, the intent is that God will ensure the safety of the traveler.
At the start of our trip in Portland, Oregon, our friends Alan and Louise gave me a Shaliach Mitzvah. It is a $1.00 bill folded as shown in the photo. This is redolent with symbolism, religious, secular and cultural; unifying them all. We are grateful for this thought and gesture, as we are for those who prayed for us. Many prayed from home, and some prayed for us on the spot, especially in the South. Thank you all. Incidents were few and we are safe. Apart from the little tumble near Monument Valley, Arizona, we kept the rubber side down and the shiny side up!
Liz was very chuffed and elated when we arrived in New York and justifiably so. She had done it. We had packed into four, short weeks more epic sightseeing and travel experiences than some folk would have in a life time. On and off the bike we became a well-oiled and efficient partnership. She learned that in small town America, she should forego cappuccino and settle for cah-fee. Liz is a champion and by the end of the trip, she had developed into one of the best pillions I have ever had behind me.
In Cortez, Colorado we caught up with John and Ann B, courtesy of a minor malfunction with the gear shift of their rented Harley-Davidson. As a result, we were able to spend a few days with them, riding together as far as Montrose, Colorado and then from Custer, South Dakota until we turned off south to Decorah, Iowa on our way to visit Andre and Lee in Wisconsin. Riding together with friends is a special experience and in this case especially so as John and I know each other, not just from Melbourne, but from our school days back in South Africa.
When Liz left, I felt quite demotivated for a few days. It would have been fantastic to do the whole trip together. We will be back, but it will be by motor car and aircraft!
John H and I spent two and a bit weeks together. Starting in Atlanta, Georgia, we covered the flat, less scenic, parts of the South and the mid West, but were more than compensated with the mood-inspiring vistas of New Mexico and the soaring grandeur of the Rockies in Colorado. We went from sweltering at sea level to running from snow and rain at the time of his departure in Denver. We met some really I interesting people. John was my source of weather information every morning and responsible for us visiting places that I myself might well have missed. Palo Duro Canyon comes to mind.
And so to the time by myself. I caught up with many old friends and made a number of new ones. I had many conversations, some long, some short, with interesting people; some in conventional situations like street corners and restaurants, and in places like Independence Pass, Colorado where, in the howling wind at 12,000 feet and the ground covered with snow I took a photo of and had a chat with a chap wearing a shirt, thin jersey and shorts! Aernoud is from Holland, so used to the cold.
I/we owe thanks for hospitality to numerous friends. Andre and Lee in Wisconsin, Gary and Laurie in London, Ontario, Tim and Cathy and Glynnis in Mono, Ontario, Amie and Nathan and their respective spouses in Pennsylvania, Tom and Gayla in Virginia, Jennifer in North Carolina, Terence and Martha Ann in Oklahoma. Thank you so much. You only added to the pleasure of the journey. Hopefully it will not be ten or more years until we meet again.
The blog has not done justice to everything we have seen and done. Adjectives to describe it are inadequate, superlatives insufficient. If nothing else in life comes close to this, this was enough.
Finally, to bring this trip of a life time to a proper conclusion, I must donate our Shaliach Mitzvah to a charity.
In Minden, Louisiana, John and I had lunch in the Timeless Café and Tearoom. It is run by the Evergreen Presbyterian Ministries as a place where intellectually and developmentally challenged folk can be employed. It impressed me and touched me.
This is, to me, a special donation. It has its origins in faith and friendship. It has afforded protection on a great journey. And its objective is service.
The trip is over. It was wonderful.
God bless America; and God bless you all.
Comments
Heinrich Voges link 03/10/2013 13:36
Duncan, I am on the way to rest for the night. But before doing this I went to switch on the computer, to see whether there is a somwething on your blog.
Yes, you and Elisabeth did it. It was really a marvelous RIDE. I become unchristian, I began to envy you when reading the entries in you blog.
Praise the Lord who protecte you during your ride.
I wish you a safe flight back to Melbourne and a happy reunion with the best pillion you ever had - she IS a Voges.
Heinrich
Reply
Ros Smith 04/10/2013 04:20
Can I stop holding my breath now?
So glad you had a wonderful experience but even more glad that you made it safely.
Well done, looking forward to hearing all the stories.
Love Ros xx
Reply
Chris Smith 04/10/2013 04:21
Well done Duncan and Liz. Muzeltov, congrats, three cheers and itchy balla-goota.
Reply
Charles 08/10/2013 19:24
Excellent adventure guys! And thanks for all the updates. Well written and thoroughly enjoyed.
Safe travels home!
Reply
Hein Prellerq link 12/10/2013 15:16
Well donnit mate and well written. What a trip!!